How to 3D Print Warp-Free on any Printer! Peel-off Layer Trick.

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In this video, I’ll share how to print challenging filaments like ABS, ASA, TPU, and PP without special equipment or enclosures. By combining materials like PLA as a base layer, we can reduce bed adhesion issues and warping.
In a tutorial, I'll show how to use this method on any 3d printer, like Prusa MK4 or Bambulab, using a manual filament change.
These tricks will help you create durable, smooth prints without investing in multi-material printers or enclosure setups.

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[JanTecEngineering]

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FlexiSpot E7plus standing desk:

[MotoDammit]

Neat! I’d love to see these kind of peel-off layers (with the tabs) incorporated into future slicers, maybe as an alternative “raft” design

[Mayo-FNT]

You are an absolute legend!!! I’ve been having a huge pain trying to get Asa to stop warping even on my Bambu printers and I’ve tried everything. Tried this and it works amazingly!!! You should contact Bambu lab or orcaslicer team to get this incorporated into the slicer. This is a serious leap forward in print ability with more exotic materials and you deserve the credit for this breakthrough. Amazing video too you earned yourself a sub! 🎉🎉

[matsavol]

I think this is the first Youtube video that describes this method to print on top of different material. I have used this trick for little while when trying to get ABS to stick on bed. I usually do design and slice (I'm using Cura) the final object (ABS material) without any bed adhesion aids (brim, raft, skirt, ...). Then I just save the GCODE file. Before deleting the object I bring another 0.2mm thick (single layer) round or rectangle object to Cura and place and scale it under the original object so that it is just slightly larger than the final print. It basically becomes the raft for the print. At that point I delete the original object, modify the print parameters for PETG, and save the "raft" GCODE.

The actual printing works such as I first print the "raft" with PETG material. Once it is done I keep the bed hot (I use 80---90C) and change the filament to ABS. After that I just print the final object on top of the PETG "raft".

I have found PETG works great under ABS. PETG sticks to a glass bed (with glue layer) very well. Once print is done and cooled the PETG "raft" can be peeled off from the ABS object rather easily.

The single layer PETG-brim does rise the bed 0.2mm up. The final object needs 0.2mm z-offset correction but that's done automatically when printer calibrates the z-offset before starting every print. (In other words: automatic bed z-offset calibration is almost mandatory for this to work. In addition the object should be at the center of the bed where the printer will measure the z-offset before starting the print.)

[Volvopeek]

You're advancing the hobby at a rapid pace with this one simple trick. Thank you!

[robertparis]

this is brilliant!! you may have opened the door to engineering materials to people with basic printers! if you're the first person to start doing this, we should call it jantec stacking or something.

[Piotrx]

Such a simple and very promising solution for open frame printers! I didn't see this solution on YT yet, well done, and I hope it will give you a lot more viewers, therefore this comment for you 🙂

[avejst]

Impressive research!
Thanks for your big job of inspire all of us, to see now possibilities!
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂

[bluerider]

Great video.

Printing ASA at 60°C Bed temp is really interesting.

[SeanLumly]

AMAZING! What an insight! You win, one internet..

[cowboyaa]

would love to see a final data sheet on what filaments work well with other filaments and what didn't, including ones that were used as the base layer that didn't seperate at all, This might be good in a case where you need a first layer face to be one material and the rest to be another material.

[wavyseahill]

Thank you for covering PP! Nobody seems to use it, but it is really cool material.

[jurrevijn]

I love the concept of the pull off layer with a label!

[cjgogreen]

Great idea! Also you should mention the open air consequences of printing higher temp filaments—VOCs. Some people may jump into this unknowingly, so if you could use your voice to keep others safe, that would be a huge service to the community!

[smokeduv]

This is such an incredible idea!!! What would be good for printing nylon? That's another material that sucks on bed adhesion that I'd be interested printing with

[ScytheNoire]

Question: Wouldn't using the raft support setting be the easiest way to add those first few layers on a part? It's built right into slicers, and would then give an edge to pull away on combinations that can be pulled away. It also makes it easy to find the layer where you should change filament, if doing it manually.
Poor rafts, the slicer setting that people seem to have forgotten about. :)

[freedomofmotion]

Was hoping for more PP tests.

Would it work with TPU?
Or perhaps with abs, asa, pet etc.

[gadge]

That flexispot desk flexes as much as the TPU you're printing with!! Look at that sucker smile!

[stevvieb]

Thank you so much. Had my very FIRST successful ASA print using PLA as the first layer on my P1S. Now just need a way to trick Bambu studio to use PLA as a raft for ASA prints.

[warmesuppe]

The problem with abs and asa is, that if printed without a hot chamber the prints get really weak.
Try printing it at above 55°C or even higher like 65°C, you don't have warping and the prints are really strong.