BETA COMPARISON 'SILENCE' 9c/5.15d

Firstly, a massive thank you to Adam Ondra & Stefano Ghisolfi and their respective teams for letting me use their footage to create this video. Here's links to the footage I've used:

Adam Ondra YT Channel:
Silence | World's Hardest Route 9c | Adam Ondra

Stefano Ghisolfi YT Channel:
Stefano's Series:
[ First Steps | Silence | Stefano Ghisolfi
[ Game On | Silence | Stefano Ghisolfi
[ Breaking Beta | Silence | Stefano Ghisolfi
[ How are the holds on Silence | Stefano Ghisolfi

Also, thank you to everyone involved in the productions. From filmmaker, to editors, to belayers!

Secondly, in this video we make a comparison between the way Adam Ondra & Stefano Ghisolfi climbed Silence, the hardest route in the world. We break the route down into parts and look at each individual section to see what differs between these two titans of the sport.

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[EmilAbrahamsson]

Heyo homies.
There's popped up a few comments about it being a bit early to speak and compare beta for the two climbers, so here's my thoughts:

Stefano shows that he's given at least 9 days, possibly up to a few weeks of efforts on the route. In my eyes that means he's started figuring out what really works for him. They are also very different heights, and have incredibly different strengths, which means you can't ever "really" compare the two. What works for Stefano will often not work for Adam, and vice versa.
I still think it's incredibly interesting to see these two climbers side by side!
Arguably, the new beta that Stefano finds is an extension of the time Adam spent on the route, since Stefano must have had an idea what all the moves could be like when he started trying it, unlike Adam. I'm certain he'll optimize things and learn more on the way to doing the route, but I wouldn't be surprised if he's settled very much on the beta, aside from some small potential tweaks, which is why I think it's interesting to compare what they have already!

When he finally goes for the send, I would be more than happy to do an analysis of Stefano pre-send VS Stefano after-send to see just how much has really changed!

EDIT:
There's been some comments about me calling Adam a "dynamic monster". Seems clarification is needed here.. Adam isn't a dyno-monster (there's even a video by Albert OK showcasing when he did a dyno statically in a competition) but his lead climbing is well defined by his extremely efficient dynamic movement, where precision and speed go together constantly. Of all the best lead climbers in the world, his pacing is almost always way way quicker than all the others, hence "dynamic monster" comment!

[mraccountoo]

The fact that the easy part that is not even worth mentioning/showing for Adam and Stefano is 8b is just mind boggling

[julianberliner]

An important detail about the pre-crux knee bar rest that only Adam can do is that he specifically trained his calves for 2 years to hold those rests to recover during the route.

[JimnyRicardo]

Hearing Adam’s celebration sigh (or moan) at the end of the route at 0, 5 speed was (unintentionally?) hilarious 😁
Anyway very well produced video, great content 👍

[Gnoldus]

Adams power-screams in half speed sounds like a dying cave troll in LOTR.

Great breakdown!

[brekkoh]

I appreciate that stefano found a beta for the first crux that looks more natural and i expect if anyone repeats the route they will go with something more akin to that

[heyyywhynot]

“Dr. Grant, my dear Dr. Sattler... Welcome to Jurassic Park.” 10:50

[neilgjohnson]

It's cool to hear your comments on the route, Emil. One note: Stefano's name should be pronounced with the accent on the first syllable (Stéfano). Keep up the great content!

[alancarne]

Super interesting analysis of the 2 climbing styles. Especially Ondra cutting loose to relieve core tension before the inversion.

[mascalian]

This is a great video!!
Well done, Emil!
And thanks :)

[AcenZac]

Thanks Emil - this was a cool breakdown!

[matthatter]

Great breakdown and great attention to detail!

[Aaron-thxx]

Would've liked if some discussion of Pete Whittaker's beta for the crack was included. Especially since Stefano kind of does a hybrid of Pete and Adam's beta.

[barnabejoyau]

Super nice video!!

Can't wait to see some repeats (and just tries) on Seb Bouin's 9C: DNA!

Could make some nice content as well in this type of format :D

[LostSolesClimbing]

Really digging this breakdown content!

[bongosock]

That was an amazing comparison of the different speeds between the two!

[denlolify]

Thanks for putting in this work, was wondering what the exact differences were after following Stefanos videos

[hannibal]

Slow motion adam power screams are amazing!

[LeoPalsgard]

Yo Emil, have you checked out the bouldering in Flatanger? The quality is amazing, and I think the style suits you!

[xtremebroccoli]

The only dude to send it clearly has best beta