Top 3 Climbing Technique Mistakes - FIXED!

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Today we wanted to share with you how to fix three of the most common technique mistakes we see beginner to intermediate climbers making. No.1 is characterised by the 'tappy foot' that is struggling to find its mark on a foot hold. This can waste energy and lead to poorly placed feet. No. 2 is over relying on locking off with your arms to make upwards progression. No. 3 is having a lazy leg when not presented with a good foothold opportunity, then not using this leg to support your base or movement. To each of these problems there are simple fixes, watch to find out!

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Here's concept which will help ANYONE avoid that "lazy leg" thing:
On overhanging terrain, one of your feet is your SUPPORT foot. This is the foot opposite the hand which will remain in place through the move, and it almost always requires a usable foothold. The other foot is your DRIVER. It should be placed opposite your TARGET handhold, in a straight line through your center of mass (lower abdomen.) If there's a foothold VERY near that spot, use it; if not, you're much better off planting your toe where it needs to be than using a foothold, EVEN A JUG, which is in the wrong spot! Also, place your driver high enough so that it will maintain contact all the way through the movement until you latch that next handhold - you'll be AMAZED at how much power this conserves!

ralphmunn
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Another beginner's sin that I am repeatedly guilty of is mispositioning relative to holds. My most mindblowing beginner moment was, when I figured out that it is 1000x easier to hold the starting holds of a sloper problem by starting with my butt on the floor compared to upright. It just did not occur to me that starting "farther down the problem" would be of any benefit. But it made all the difference. Another example is failing to move to the side when holds are at an angle. Yes, I know that you should generally position perpendicular to the edge of the hold and that straight arms are often better than lock off. But my stupidity is stronger, when putting that into practice...

nilsp
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My most common mistake still is: not trusting my abilitys. And when I was a beginner 6 years ago, I focused to much on reaching the top instead of trying to find the best technical and efficent moves for the boulder.

marcusperne
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Thanks guys. I'd love a video dedicated to hips! How to use them shift the center of gravity... When to drop your butt to smear etc... I always stugle with that!

TheNitram
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Letting the hands get too far ahead of the feet and ending up really stretched out

gawth
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Great video, my mistake is I rely far too much on technique and static body position and don't train my strength or dynamic movement much. Ive done V6 on technical small hold boulders but still struggle with v3/4 strength and dynamic climbs and can't(won't) even do a v2 Dyno.
Biggest breakthrough for me was being diagnosed with ADHD and starting medication, it calmed my brain down so not thinking of every way I could hurt myself and instead can focus on the climb!

hollywaller
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Similar to the tappy foot - Regripping. Try to avoid constantly repositioning/fidgeting your grip while transitioning to the next move. Instead, grab the hold, readjust to the best grip if you're not already there, then STAY THERE while you reposition your feet and commit to the next move.

fivetwoeighty
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Your point on setting the feet the first time is great and new for me. I just learned to do this with my hands: grab the hold correctly on first go instead of regripping

G.I.Jack
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Nice topic! I'm hoping there is another one upcoming for intermediate boulders, e.g. V5 to V8

benja_mint
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I love sharing the straight arm tip with new climbers as it allows them to save energy and climb longer.

kamoke
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I feel like this could've been two separate videos; there's a significant difference between a V0 climber and a V4 climber. It may be tricky to think up three suggestions for each group, but I think going V0-V4, V5-V8, V9-V12 are too wide a grouping to help the most people

LittleMur
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Nice video. I wanted to mention how important a strong core is for the last suggestion. In order to maintain that tension to make those flags effective your core is going to need to be engaged. If this is your weak area, you may find you still sag somewhat despite flagging, or are less able to push your weight close to the wall as you tire. Also, work on breathing with your core engaged, as newer climbers may hold their breath when holding tension. As a taller climber I struggle with these things. I am personally working on the front level progression exercises suggested by lattice, every day when I warm up.

TheChismFamily
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The way you explained the second one really got through to me. Thanks!

velunara
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I feel so attacked by this video haha. The lock off and lazy leg is totally me! Thanks for showing alternatives and ways to work on this!

kweet
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I'm definitely a beginner climber (I've bouldered maybe 7-8 times so far, and am maxing out on V1 routes) and have made every mistake pointed out in this video. I'm currently having a very difficult time learning the basics, because I'm 6'2" and very lanky to the point where I'm pretty much all limbs on the wall – and can't visualize beta either in advance or in mid-climb. Making moves like twisting and trying to push up with my legs only seems to get me further away from the wall, instead of further up the wall. At the same time, I don't want to give into the easy temptation to just rely on my height and arms to campus everything...because I do want to develop good technique. It's a frustrating place to be. But I really appreciate how your video attempts to explain everything, and I'll try to use these tips.

nxtwomenfan
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As was told to me when I first started in accordance to your second tip: Which do you think is a better climber: a T-rex or a monkey?
My most common mistake? Forgetting to breathe. I have to keep reminding myself to exhale because the inhale will take care of itself.

Jarom.M
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Thank you for the great video!
I defiantly make all of these three mistakes. Next time I’ll watch out for them

negarfarahbakhsh
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Golden! Simple advice that can make a world of difference... Thank you!

chandanashilpa
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Great for begginners and old timers too. Thank you.

jorgealexandremoreira
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The first two were certainly issues I have as a V2/3 climber. Definitely going to consider these more next time I'm in the gym.

FusionAdam