Mazda 6 FN4AEL / Ford 4F27E Auto Transmission Recondition Rebuild 1 of 3

FN4AEL Mazda / 4F27E Ford Auto Transmission Rebuild
Mazda FS5A-EL 2002–2014 — 5-speed version of FN4A-EL, also used in Ford Focus/Milan 2006 - 2009 known as FNR5

Original Fault was No Reverse, No 3rd Gear and slipping and No 4th Gear. Servo Piston Pin Bore in case showed not worn at all.

#transmission #gearbox #autorepair #automatictransmission #diy #tutorial #howto #yepthatsit

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Ford Fiesta MK7 (2008-2012) 1.4L & 1.5L Duratec engine (Ti-VCT)
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Ford Focus 2000–2011
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[AJ]

I've been working to get a 2007 focus with almost 200, 000 miles drivable for my friend... after everything else was done and it would fit start, when I took it for a test drive, I noticed the transmission slipping. It looked like the transmission fluid had never been changed.

So I finally got almost all the old fluid out by draining and filling between drives. It hasn't improved the problem, though.

I think I have it narrowed down to it slipping when the torque converter clutch is engaging or disengaging. Accelerate when the scan tool says the clutch solenoid is modulating and it revs up without speeding up. Possibly also happening while shifting from 3rd to 4th... I need to test more.

They're broke, so there's no way it's going to a specialist. That's why I put so much time into this for free to get it running.

All I would be confidently capable of is working on the valve body, checking the valves and installing new solenoids. Do you think it's probably a more serious problem than that? Should I even bother with the solenoids?

I know it should ideally be rebuilt, but I'm afraid it I actually took it out and got it apart, I wouldn't get it back together again correctly.

[ZealoustheEnder]

Just want to let you know that a 5 year old video is still helping. I Have a FN4AEL in a 2006 Mazda 5 also know as the Premacy. The previous owner of the vehicle hot codes for one or two of the solenoids and didn't want mess with it. So i took it of his hands and bought a valve body and a shift kit off Amazon. I just disassemble the valve body to install the shift kit. And I noticed all of the valves are gummed up. I used a soft bristled nylon brush in the bores put it all back together. I didn't know that those Pistons are supposed to move as easily as they do in your video. I need to go back now and recheck them because when I fill the transmission up with the Mazda fluid ran it up to temperature if physically wouldn't shift past reverse.
If you do read this thanks for your video and maybe you could tell me the little lever from the valve body that interfaces with the Gear selector in the Transmission. Should it be in a certain position when I install the valve body or does the fluid pressure take care of it?

[MrIsuko]

Looks easy when someone else does it !

[mustafaaydogan]

Hello, is the brain in this vehicle the same as in the fnr5 gearbox?

[easymac]

I reckon you'd have a lot less gunk getting in the valves if you pulled them out before sanding/grinding the surface.

I've got to figure out why my Mazda is screeching like a banshee in Reverse and bogs the engine down in Drive.
'
I bolted the TC to the engine first, then slid on the trans like you do a manual. Rotated the engine by hand and realized the mistake. What I'm hoping to spot is what could have become damaged beyond the oil pump from that fiasco. No problems in Neutral or Park.

I don't know what I hope the problem is. I wish there was no problem, this car is driving me crazy!

[akaitv]

Could you use hylomer on that valve body gasket after a good block sand

[amateurcarpist]

Thanks for the video. If I just want to change the solenoid block, should I still take the whole staff out as happened here 09:25

[tallerautomotrizmecanicaes]

Excelente. Ojalá se pudiera en español.

[ksametyurtyapan]

The automatic transmission mazda does not go into reverse before the oil warms up. What could be the cause of the malfunction?

[thelegend]

Hi, I have a Ford Focus MK2 (2006)European built with a 4F27E transmission (I believe, not confirmed) and I want to rebuild it. How do I know for sure if my transmission carry a single sided or a double sided clutches in order to purchase the right kit?

My car has about 80K miles, and I have never changed the oil in about 6 years of ownership. I noticed a feedback on the transmission at one time, so I immediately checked the oil. I noticed the oil was VERY dirty (brown river water in color) so I changed it myself. I noticed that there were NO metal filings nor any excessive clutch material in the pan, next to nothing at all. I have seen much worse that didn't have a problem. Overall, everything looked, I would say better than average inside the pan. After changing the oil, the transmission started giving different codes indicating Shift Solenoid C fault, Engine System Defaults, and Transmission Gear Ratio Incorrect. Sometimes the car would have a Hard Shift and a prolong shift from first to second gear. I also noticed that the car was stuck in high gear and would take off in same gear. I changed out the oil again and put back in the same old solenoid since the new solenoid continued giving the same code. The solenoid code went away afterwards even with the old one.

What are your thoughts as to what could be the problem/issue with my transmission? Someone mentioned that the pressure valve could be sticking and causing the problem. I also saw that they are selling a modified shift kit for this transmission. Would that help or fix my situation?

Thank you for your help.

[andym]

I think I will soon be making good use of your video. Mazda 3 2004 2.3L automatic can't shift to 3rd or 4th gear, however indicator light does shows 3 quickly (early?) shifting to 4 both at ~20mph. AT light is then on. However when indicating 4th at 20-25mph it revs high rpms and is not or poorly engaged and car come to a crawl. There is no downward change in rpms upon in 3 or 4, so it's not really shifting into these gears IMO. Using manual shift mode, the car drives ok in 1 and 2-- in 2 it can go beyond 20mph, to around 30-35mph at high revs. Shifting manually to 3, there is no apparent shift, and if driven like this for even a short time manual mode no longer indicates which gear it's in and eventually loses engagement-- at this point shifting back to automatic mode shows the car to be in 4, with the same engagement problem as before. Shifting to park, turning off and on the car resets the system,
A code reader shows PO772 (solenoid E stuck on) after a while, though it doesn't appear for a while . I replaced solenoids E and D (smaller ones), but no improvement. At one point I did see PO773.
Could this this be electrical in any way or is the direct 3rd/4th clutch damaged as I suspect? Is there any way to leave the transmission on the car while replacing the 3/4 direct clutch?

[chrisp]

Any idea how to access the park pin? Someone in my family decided to put the car into neutral while going down a hill. They instead hit park and the car made a bunch of clicking noises and a bang. Car still drives but when you put it into park, it still rolls.

[lelandransom]

I enjoyed the video. I am rebuilding the valve body on a Mazda 3 FN4AEL that is still in the car. Can you give me any help with installing the complete assembly with the accumulators? I don't know how I can keep them up in the case while I lift the valve body back in place. What do you do? Thanks Yep.

[elbagarcia]

Hi there!!! I have a 2008 Mazda 6, the "AT" ligth is on, the scanner says Solenoid B is stuck on (p0757) ....the thing is that my car has *no reverse* _ Can a faulty TCM cause a transmission to lose reverse? or is the solenoid B that's causing that issue?

[canbaran]

I have a tool that will issue protons brand of turkey istanbul, model 1998 Mitsubishi motor motor vehicle automatic gearbox problem I'm working, but I'm not moving very slowly an automatic transmission did new car, but cıktı solenoid problem does occur, how do we solve, you must help me

[oxygen]

Great video!! I'm looking at dropping the pan and valve body. Any tips on getting the accumulators back in and keeping them there when working under the car? Gravity is not our friend in this instance lol.

The trans sometimes is hard to get into reverse and 1st is nearly impossible. Something pops and then everything shifts normal again.

[manna]

2009 Ford Fusion delayed engagement from a stop. Jerks a little. All the other gears are good. Thinking B solenoid or the clutch plates. Not done a trans yet. Am I on the right path. Thinking of doing my first rebuild or partial since everything else is smooth. Recommendations on the possible problem? Swapping the solenoids this weekend to try that angle. Thanks

[Raffgon]

Hi there!
A question: My 2007 2.3L 5-speed Mazda 6 V-Belt suddenly unravelled (let's say 70% of it) but at the exact same time the car would accelerate but won't shift into any gear. I could hear a fairly buzzing sound while trying to shift.
Check engine light is off but AT is on. Could it be related to the V-belt? I know is crazy but is such a coincidence that both thing happened at the same time!

[twig]

I have a 99 Premacy 1.8 with 130k miles. The hold light has been randomly flashing and then the AT fails to select OD. Any ideas what the most likely cause?

[ralfpetrucci]

Good! 4F27E I have that box, it presents fault only in Cold and when it lasts more than 1/2 hour off ..! Failure does not apply speed in DRIVER, it must warm up 10 minutes and makes all changes well .. With great force and perfectly! What should I replace or repair? Thank you