This Injury Almost Ended My Surfing Career

My motto is simple. DO what's in YOUR heart & never give up! I wasn't always this committed to my dreams, though. There were many years of my life where I let alcohol & excuses get in the way of what I truly wanted. I'm no longer going to allow negativity, excuses & doubt get in the way of me going after & accomplishing my dreams. This knee injury almost ended my surfing career, but also changed my mindset & let me become the person that I am today. THANK YOU Nub Nation for the stoke & support & FOR THE DREAM!! - Ben

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[aaronfrazierhughes]

I find your content much more compelling than watching professional surfers on perfect waves in some far off place I will probably never visit. You show the fun, more approachable side of surfing. Novelty waves and less than ideal conditions teach us not to take ourselves too seriously and to remember the pure joy of riding a wave. Thanks Ben!

[chrisbauman]

I said it in other videos but you got me sober 2-3 years ago. I was an absolute mess, I mean fricking cocked, hanging off my computer chair. Surfed once as a kid never thought about it. I was on YouTube and saw a picture of the ocean, I clicked and it was your channel. Your outlook on life and happiness was exactly who I was before alcohol. I instantly dropped everything bad that immediate next day, stopped cigarettes, alcohol, bud, cold turkey. No hospital. I was bugging out, seeing flashes of colored light, shaking, puking. Forced myself through it. Immediately bought a board. Now here I am shredding past 3 years, back to 180lbs, clear headed as I've ever felt and living my dream. Thank you man 💜 the claim is heavy

[jono]

Ben, your vlog is inspirational, encouraging, and entertaining, to all people, not just surfers...you truly are an example that anyone can change their life just by simply making a decision to move in another direction...a decision that has to be made everyday, sometimes it's hard but it pays off. Thanks buddy, you're a hero!

[jocuseo]

Hey Ben Jo Cuseo here in California, I think what you are doing with your video's is very important and very cool. I am 63 and have surfed my entire life. I grew up surfing with surfing legend Skip Frye in San Diego and now surf LA county and Ventura County out here. You are communicating some great truths and your spirit is great. Keep it up! The things you are communicating are deep truths but you have found a way to share that thru surfing and your STOKE for life. WOW!!! so cool Ben, thanks!!!!

[Bjaws]

Your commitment to change your life has been a winning dream. Not just for you, but for everyone you touch and entertain through surfing. Great job, and continue the Dream! For the Win. You are Fully Nuking, my friend.

[zak-a-roo]

Spreading the positive story is saving lives, Ben, it's the very HEART of true sobriety.

[joshmccredie]

Well I’m glad it didn’t end your surfing career cause you have inspired me to be more positive and have a better outlook on life

[YNDog]

I stubbed my toe and almost quit surfing so this is very inspiring to me

[dylanbeinke]

Such a genuine authentic being, thanks for sharing the love of life

[slimpickins]

Thanks Ben I agree with Aaron about local surfing and the pure joy of surfing what you have in your own backyard. Seeing you surf el slamo and other local waves is something I can relate to. Keep your dream, you have come so far, you deserve every happiness you have...

[adamashberry]

Ben! I’m really digging the fact that in a lot of your recent episodes you talk a good bit about being a binge drinker, seeking change within yourself, setting goals, making the change, and living out your dream; whatever that may be, and doing it sober. And not only living the dream but sharing the dream. Sharing that there is a chance, there is possibility within us, and that we’re worth it and it can in fact be done. I found your page only a couple of years ago but I’ve been sober from alcohol for over 7 years now and you’re content keeps me and others going… as if we had any other reasonable choice… haha. So, all I’m saying is thank you. Bless you. Much love. Cheow.

[CallMeAlpha]

❤️ my dad became that extra push for me, life comes at you quick
Love you, a huge motivation for me you
Thank god/spirits/whatever you believe in that you exist 🙏

[gonewitdawind]

You're a huge light, the world needs you, keep being awesome 😎👍

[taylorkosa]

You’re an incredible human being Ben!! I truly feel your words brother and you are living a true spiritual life through those waves and overcoming your struggles.
I lost my dad to suicide, drugs and alcohol when I was 7 years old man. I have tremendous respect for people like you who overcome and make it out. You’re a huge inspiration. Surfing the past year has changed my life completely in all ways.
I’m soo grateful to be a part of this journey with you 🤙🤙🤙💙

[alljets]

I started following surfing vlogs about a year ago. I found myself not being able to work anymore due to many ortho issues I will not bore you with. You were the first guy I happened upon and although I knew nothing about you, your love of life, your surfing, and of course your beautiful wife hooked me in to follow on an almost daily basis. I am not sure I will be able to get back on a surfboard in my life again, but you sure make me want to try! Thanks Pal, and I wish you continued happiness, sobriety, and happy marriage.

[rohanalmond]

I’m so glad I found your channel Ben. The way you adapted to what could have been catastrophic change in a positive way is amazing and the way you put that across in this video is compelling. Plus riding for the love of the water is the best! Big wave, small wave, just being out is the key to living in the moment. I look forward to coming along for the ride and becoming inspired by your vlogs. Thanks man

[Mashu]

Thanks Ben for the continuous inspiration and positive vibes

[sayitaintslw]

Agree with the sentiments of so many here. I tried surfing in Costa Rica once and failed. Your content exceeds athletics, travel, surfing, love and good will..it’s always been so much more. It’s positive vibes always and appreciation for life and those around you. You are always giving and always authentic. Appreciate you!

[TheSilverSurfers]

Always inspirational and sometimes even educational. I really appreciate your struggle and your willingness to share it with all of us. Because of the way we [men] are socialized here in this country, we rarely identify our emotions and even more infrequently do we share them with others. Thanks for keepin it real, thanks for sharing the love, and the dream! and most importantly, thanks for showing your genuine, authentic self. Keeep up the great work, man!

[justineaves]

I destroyed my left leg and shattered my kneecap when I was 20 years old and I still have a leg full of steel bars and wires. It still hurts and the scar is still very gnarly. It gave me a deeper appreciation for freedom and health and I definitely understand your journey with your leg better than most.