Top 10 Things to do to a Classic Mustang

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This list is an attempt to help guide those looking for what to upgrade or replace on their Classic Mustangs.

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The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.

Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.

Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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#Mustang
#1966
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Fine job. My 93 year old dad gave me advice, plan on doing car work twice. Once to learn how, and once to do it right.

matthewhummel
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Excellent list. I recommend American Autowire and just rewire the entire car. Old wiring is a fire hazard. I would as well add suspension, steering, and Shelby drop for 11, 12, 13. Open Tracker Racing is a good source for those three items.

Rogers
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A big yes to VMF. Vintage Mustang Forum has helped me out many times. Great people there.

joebob
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I know this video is 2 yrs old now, but i jusy inherited my great grandfather's '69 Grande (351w) with only 75k miles. Im the 4th generation owner now and this has given me a great list to start with. Love the videos Andy, thanks

kylemishler
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Nice choices. I have owned a 1965 Mustang since 1978. I also built AC Cobras for a living. Here are my personal modifications starting from front to back. And my goal was to try to use all OEM parts from FORD and keep the 1965 look. Yes to the Shelby drop, but. Here is my extra secret. But I also added extra metal under the upper control arms where the saddle bolts, because I have seen crack around those holes. 1974 Maverick spindles, they have free caster built in and can come with disc brakes dual master cylinder/adjustable proportion valve. if you get car with those, same parts as a Granada conversion. Next, bias the upper control arm shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch. Die grind a very thin channel X for grease that does not interfere with the threads. 1968 Mustang big block springs, and cut one third of one coil off the top. On all four corners upper arm bolts are only one shim. The car sits almost level, not having that nose dive like your car and all Shelby cars. That allows for bigger tires, a better looking stance and no worrying about speed breakers. Sit in the car while it is being aligned so it is zeroed with your weight. Monte Carlo and export brace. Good strong shocks, 0ne inch front sway bar, all polyurethane bushings, power steering close ratio box and manual, no power. I have one extra half leaf on the rear with a 5/8th inch rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings. Late model diaphragm clutch m10 1/2 inch. Duraspark electronic ignition with a 6AL MSD box (first non OEM part). Here is a big one, Tremec 5spd for that traction lock you bought. I modified the Tremc bell housing so that I kept all the 1965 clutch pedal, and linkage, clutch arm, throwout bearing. MOD: drill out the two rivets on your 1965 bell housing. Make an exact template using the four transmission mounting holes and drill the two fulcrum holes. The Tremec bell housing: remove the cable pivot arm, bolt the template and drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them once template is removed. The difference in the top loader and Tremec input shaft is, the Tarmac is 5/8th inch longer. So, get aluminum bar stock and machine down to 5/8th inch thick. The block should be like a spacer for the fulcrum assemble, moving the fulcrum forward the 5/8th inch difference. Use grade 8 fine thread counter sunk bolts and metal lock nuts. Use your standard 1965 adjustable clutch rod and add an adjustable 1968 Mustang lower clutch rod. Now you can cruise at 75 mph at 2200 RPMs. I also paid a little extra for the new driveshaft and got an aluminum one. Excluding the Tremec, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your car for dependability and longevity. I did this 35 years ago, and have never touched the car since and it was a daily driver. Three point seat belts is a must. Aluminum radiator, electric fan with a relay is great. I powder coated everything under the hood but the block. Extra, but it looks as good now as 35 years ago, Simple Green, new again. My last is, I took small tach and oil gauges and made my own Ralley Pac style gauge package. I have done the Shelby drop before, but I really believe my car handles even better with my modification. With that nose drop, your weight shifts rearward like a fulcrum. I don't get as much push or that extreme over steer. So I just gave you my decades of modifications. Good luck.

pd
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Love the list and have done most of it on my 65 289 coupe. I'd add 4.5 leafs and roller bearings for the front suspension and steering components to really improve the handling! Cheers.

lucbegin
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That double brake master cylinder is no joke, trust me ...

MEANSTREETAUTO
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Great Video! I've done many of those mods and can vouch for them!

SmackeysGarage
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Good list but I also think that AC is a must for a Classic. I have a 67 and I had to install AC and rack & pinion plus most of the things you talked about, Think about replacing the whole wiring system. it took me a week but if I can do it you can too. Good luck.

Mustangshow
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My Father and I bought a 65 fastback 2+2 when I was 17 years old. First thing we did was power front disc brakes then Lincoln Versailles 9 inch Detroit Locker with 31 spline axels, Then of course I needed bigger rimes the 14s wouldn't fit anymore, So I went 16X8 inch Americans, allowing a wider variety of performance tires. Choosing Nitto NT01. Then I built a 302 stroked to 347 old school solid lifter, Edelbrock RPM heads, RPM manifold, Quick fuel 750 double pumper, Engle cam and scat lower rotating assembly with a racing 4 speed top loader and upgraded drive shaft U joints. then I dropped the front 1 inch with grab a track suspension and 620 lb springs.1 inch drop 5 leaf rear springs with Koni shocks all around. Aluminum radiator with 3000CFM electric fan. Fiberglass Shelby hood and rear seat delete. I shift at 7, 500rpms and get 1000 Smiles to the gallon in this car. I still have it and I am 63 years old. Thats my 10

darrentaylor
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Beautiful video thanks brother ❤ regards from uk 🇬🇧 Birmingham city

MrMagsimus
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I have a stock 66 coupe w/289 in Signal Flair Red, made in San Jose.
Put a MSG ignition, heads & valves reworked, upgrade to Crane-Cam rocker rollers instead of the stock stamp steel. One high performance harmonic balancer for smooth high revving. Its a runner!

adamdelarozza
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Awesome video Andy, I always look forward to watching them, helps me make decisions with my 66’ Mustang

Molaca
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Easy headlight up grade. Distributors like Classic Industries, NPD etc. offer hallogen headlights with original Ford script. Look totally stock but huge improvement in night driving. Will also have to replace the headlight switch as original will not handle the extra load. The 1967 switch is pretty much a direct replacement and does handle the extra load. Total cost about $65 and an hour labor.. Three and 4 row original style radiators are also available or can be fabricated by a good radiator shop ($350-$500). One you missed. An upgraded ignition such as the Pertronix electronic ignition is a must have for a driver. It all fits under the cap except for a single aditional wire. About $100 and an hour or so labor. NEVER deal with points again and plugs cap and rotor last forever.

rdmgwinn
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Thanks for the list. I got my 65 too and needs a lots of work, but the good thing is drivable.

ehumezperez
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on my 66 GT had headers and decent mufflers but stock over the axle rear pipes, when I swapped those pipes for flow master 2.5 inch set I picked up 5 !! mph in the quarter eventually running 99 mph at 14.4 with a non posi 3.50 rear gear.

radioguy
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I bought my 66 Mustang in 1975. It was my daily driver until 1986 when clutch went out. It sat unassembled until 2016 when we did a complete rebuild. My list is much like yours.
Disk brakes and master where number one. Electronic ignition replaced the points dist. Installed a Monte Carlo bar, export shock brace and aluminum radiator under the hood. My car was built with a top loader 4 speed which was freshened up but FORD made it to handle much more HP than I make so nothing else. We finished days before the Mustang 55th at Charlotte Motor Speedway. Thanks

davevan
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Great to see that you hand loosened the wheel nuts and then spun them off with a gun (avoids nut damage )

petermarygold
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Super helpful tips for people that are just starting up. I 1000% agree to ask questions. There are sooo many people in forums that are happy to help out or on a Channel named `Andy Kruse` hahah good video man.

torreerrot
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Dual master brake cylinder with booster if budget allows . Suspension has to be in top condition !! 1 inch drop of LCA is a must ! A stiffer roll bare in front !! Wiring has to be in top shape otherwise replace !!! Rad OK but certainly a shroud and clutch fan is a must. LED taillights is a must and even H4 headlights powered through relais. At least !!!

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