How to Remove, Test and Replace Brake Light Switch - Toyota Corolla and Camry

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it properly and the problem of brake lights being stuck on is solved.

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Toyota corolla,
Toyota Camry,
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Honda,
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IMPORTANT ADDITION TO AN ALREADY EXCELLENT VIDEO.

This excellent video inspired me to go through the same procedure on my 2000 Toyota Tacoma. I was not surprised to see a very similar (if not identical) setup. Toyota doesn't reinvent the wheel for each car model; they tend to re-use their designs. So, I went ahead and did everything suggested, testing everything, adjusting everything. As in the video, the switch was not my problem. My adjustments were spot on. But STILL, after putting everything back together, the problem persisted! In desperation, I consulted with my excellent local mechanic. He immediately identified the ultimate cause of the problem, having personally witnessed it time and again on vehicles brought to him for repair (Toyotas, Hondas, and who knows what else). Let me explain below.

Position the video around 4:47 and you'll see an excellent, well lit image of the problem area. Focus on the metal piece that touches the tip of the switch. As it moves up and down (with brake pedal movement), you see how it is supposed to press and release the switch's button. If you look closely, you will see that the place the switch touches looks slightly different than the surrounding metal. What you are seeing is a very much worn-down black rubber button. Over time, with countless brake actions, this piece wears down and eventually falls off. It's barely OK in the video, but I'd say it's about to wear through completely, the result being a HOLE in that metal piece. That hole just happens to be sized large enough such that the button fits entirely into it, WITHOUT A CHANCE OF BEING DEPRESSED.

Prior to the mechanic telling me about this missing button, I was dumfounded. Everything looked perfect. In the dim light, I saw the switch's shaft disappear when the brake pedal was released. I assumed it had been depressed, just like it's supposed to be. Unless you can see there's an empty hole where that rubber button used to be, when the switch's shaft falls into it, you mistake what you see for a closed switch. Wrong!

Instead of sending me to Toyota to get the "official" replacement part, my mechanic gave me a small variety of body panel "buttons" to take home to try. A big one that looked to be the perfect size resisted insertion, no matter how hard I tried. Instead, I used a smaller one that just dropped in. I was concerned it might fall out just as easily as I inserted it, but (a) with the brake released, it's pinned in there by the switch's shaft and (b) with the brake pedal depressed, it has no tendency to "jump" out because of the orientation of the metal piece into which it's inserted. I am hopeful it will serve as a permanent fix.

TIPS:

1. You may find yourself working upside down, on your back. To mitigate the pain, place a low step-stool adjacent to the rocker panel and sit your butt on it.

2. Insert of a replacement button is made easier if you widen the gap between the switch and what it presses on. To do so, turn on the engine. This will permit the brake pedal to be depressed further than with the engine off. Then, wedge a bar clamp between the pedal and the front of the driver's seat (obviously after configuring the clamp for spreading instead of clamping). Once the wedge is in place, you can turn the engine off and proceed with your work.

rachavya
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The brake switch cushion or pad was missing on your situation when this cushion breaks it causes a gap in between the pedal and the switch enough for the switch to activate and cause the lights to stay on. a temporary fix is to back off the nut and screw the switch further in until the plunger is all the way in. this will turn off the lights when pedal is all the way up and work normally. when you replace the pad on the pedal, you will adjust the switch back to the normal spot.

leeish
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Thank you sir for doing this video. I've watched a bunch of videos on this brake light switch issue and your video is the best and most comprehensive one I have found. Very informative and helpful for people of all automotive repair skills.

ralphgedeon
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just did mine. My lights were not turning ON

lydiaahubbell
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What happen is the switch is still good but the little piece or washer that is used to stop the switch button from being depressed it broke is a tan plastic washer that covers the hole when that breaks the switch button is going thru the hole take a ziptie and put it in the hole and tie securely once the hole is covered the button will stop going in the hole then your tail light will come off Yu just have to cover the hole that little button the guy is pressing in the video that little button is not suppose to go right thru the hole use the zip tie to cover the little hole

cooliebaii
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Hey man thank you for the video. I appreciate it! Your efforts helped me fix my 95 dx wagon corolla.

ALTheRealSlayer
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Thank you man this saved me! Such a easy fix also, who woulda though

marcellohenrique
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I have a 1998 . I am have the same problem. I hooe to fix it this weekend. Thank you for the video

erickfrench
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Hey Joseph--Great Video. it will be very helpful to me with my '98 have done us viewers a Big Favor with the very good Quality of this video. You will help a LOT of viewers with these types of cars. As for myself, I would like to return a favor to you. I want you to make More Car Repair Videos like this--if you wish....I am a teacher kind of person. I married a foreigner. I taught her English from scratch. She is very good--as you are. Your accent is there, but you are very understandable. A lot of Car Repair Video Makers, WHO SPEAK GREAT ENGLISH--DON'T make videos as good yours. You have Very Good Videography and you are a Very Good Demonstrator and Explainer. That is why you need to make more videos--Because you are GOOD....Now, that being said, let me help you with a few word confusions that you have in this video. I only saw three problems that may need corrections in the future. There were only three. These are NOT Criticisms. They are just "small polishes of your English, " to help future viewers to understand you. I hope that you won't be offended....So here goes... #1) In the on-screen printing, you used the word "padle." Almost everyone can understand what you are trying to say and show. The word is "P E D A L." A Brake Pedal is what you press to stop a car. Your spelling of your word "Padle" is similar to an English word, "Paddle, " which a long flat stick-like thing that you use to row a canoe. #2) You used a "Voltmeter" or "Ohm Meter" in your video. It was a combination device. It is actually a "Volt/Ohm Meter." You may or may not want to use this term in a future video. This is totally up to you. #3) The points on the end of the wires of the Volt/Ohm meter are called "Probes, " not wires....That is it. I hope that this helps. In the future, maybe one day you can help me polish MY speaking and writing of YOUR Language. (Not sure what it is. I think that it's Russian.)....Any way, I wish you well with your Life, Your Family, and All of Your Future Videos. Take Care.

thedbguy
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here again, his accent makes it impossible to understand what he is trying to explain.... skip it

DougHinVA
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Thanks my friend! I fixed my brake light that was always on, in my corolla ae101 1992, with directions from your video :)

sphinxgr
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I didn’t have time to wait on amazon so I glued a juul pod on it, works like new

nicholaslothringer
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Good job. I am having problems with my 99 toyota Sienna not wanting to start unless I move the shifter in and out of park. I cannot see the shift lever or a switch for it. Duh. Thanks. 😍

JohnSmith-uysv
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Thank you so much for the video. Got my break light switch changed and working in under 30 mins. I have little to no experience doing these kinda of things thank you again have a blessed day

zacrey
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I fixed mine with the help of your video.Thank you very much.

lybcolybco
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Thanks, your video just helped me with this problem. Tested switch it was good screwed the switch in a little further down and brake lights now work properly.

briancrites
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Thanks for the video. Since you showed all the troubleshooting method, I was able to skip all the steps and go directly to moving the switch in further. I was able to do so without taking off dash panels; just unplug the wire connector, unlock the 14mm nut, screw in the switch and check for function. Put everything back in reverse and done in about 10 minutes. It helps to have someone looking at the brake lamp when checking.

inkspot
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Awesome work! Thank you for being so descriptive! My rear drum brakes were extremely worn so i think that’s why the switch was not being completely

isauceso
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Nice video, my brake lights on a 2001 Tacoma work fine but I am getting a P1520 code - any thoughts on the cause?

davepeeters
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I think there is a speck on how far the brake pedal travels before the light comes on. You probably screwed the switch in too far and the light will not come on soon enough.

palmtree