Neal Beidleman | Mill House Podcast - Episode 19

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Neal Beidleman is no ordinary man. Raised in Aspen, CO his heart had a big outdoor spirit. Pain became a close companion as he started chasing high mountain summits and running 100 mile races.

His job is even abnormal - as an aerospace engineer he designs deployable antenna structures for NASA and holds over a dozen patents on designs and devises he has worked on over the years. This guy is what you call - brilliant.

While working as a guide for Scott Fischer's 1996 Everest expedition which ended in tragedy, Neal was credited a large role in assisting clients off the mountain to safety. After summiting, a large rouge storm encased the top of Everest with plummeting temperatures, high winds, and zero visibility. The harrowing night had them exposed to the brunt of the storm without shelter at 26,000 feet. Eight people perished...

Years later in 2011 and 2018 he successfully summited again, healing the deep wounds of the 96' tragedy.

Today he still lives life to its fullest with more big mountain ascents in his near future.

His photography has documented his stories which have appeared in National Geographic, TIME, Newsweek, Men's Journal, and the cover of Life Magazine.
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This is such a valuable piece of the story. Early in the interview, Neal offhandedly said that he could talk for hours and hours about it. I screamed in my mind, "YES, PLEASE DO talk to us for hours and hours about it!! Clearly, that wasn't going to happen ib this interview, but I'd LOVE to hear the WHOLE ENTIRE story from beginning to end from his perspective. I wish he __would___ write a book, or just do his own Youtube video talking into the camera. What did he not have time to tell us?

zztop
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I have heard Neil speak before, but never to this extent. What a thoughtful, compassionate, amazing human being.

jimc
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Much repsect to this guy. He is the one person whom I trust more than anyone that was there to tell a genuine, unbiased perspective of this tragedy. No axe to grind. Isn't funny how the one guy who didnt write a book on those events is the one we really need to write a book on the events?!

Rebel-Rouser
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I don't think Neal gets enough credit for what he did during the 96 tragedy to help the group survive

maxpowers
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Now and again you come across people who embrace the concept of how short life is..Neal understands this at an extraordinary level...his humility is on another level too...Withers still has to be the shining light of this expedition.

atoms-to-atoms
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I read "Into Thin Air" when I was 29. I'm now 54. I've followed all of the careers and stories of all involved in the 1996 disaster. Neal is a hero, as are so many others, including David Breashears, who recently died. I'm watching this video for the 3rd time, in honor of David and all of the others who were lost or forgotten. I always wanted to meet Charlotte Fox.

chericercone
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Doesn't matter how many times I hear about this event. It fascinates me. It has excitement, horror, tragedy, love, hope and survival. Its shocking and astounding the power of nature. The majesty of the mountain. An the respect it deserves.
I like many others have wanted to hear Neals thoughts. So thank you for bringing this to us.
Hes truly a humble man. Thank you.

MCrvngraddip
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What a great interview! Neal has famously never written a book about the events on Everest in May 1996 but his story is a critical one in understanding what went on. He came across as honest and self-effacing, articulate and respectful. This was a mesmerising and truly memorable interview - thanks so much.

Robutube
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What a class act you are Neal. Your consideration for the memory of those lost as well as not throwing mud at anyone else's mistakes. You are definitely the definition of a hero

janetjames
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This was amazing, what a human being, a hero

gb
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Excellent interviewer. No babbling, no interrupting. Very professional.

elegantgewgaw
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Amazing interview, he seems like a really amazing man to know.

Anatoly said he didn't use oxygen because he had been on 8000 meter peaks all year and was totally acclimatized. The following year he did use oxygen when guiding on Everest because he didnt spend the year on the mountains. So, I don't think it was ego.

Anatoly said he didn't feel he needed to be on the mountain because there were three other guides with all the clients, and it was better to have a guide rested and waiting at camp, which ended up saving everyone in the end.

robertmartin
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I've been waiting for a detailed account by Mr. Beidleman for years. Thank you for this great interview!

queenofthegods
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I'm from Japan but left the country in 92, so wasn't aware about Namba, until I watched Storm Over Everest. Thank you for trying your best to save her, Neal. RIP, Namba san.

gracewilliams
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Very underrated hero of the story. Great athlete, great man.

laurasalo
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I have read this book several times. I am amazed at the sheer determination of the people depicted. It is nice to hear individual stories. I am most amazed by Beck Weathers. How that man survived was in my opinion determination and some help from above.
David Breashears (according to many reports) helped so much. I wonder if he had not been filming during that time if things would have been worse. I feel sadness for the Sherpa guides. I feel as if they don't get a lot of credit. However John does mention them a lot in his book.

MrRdh
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What a lovely, humble, articulate, handsome guy! And smart to boot! Great interview.

spacewitchvulcan
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Neal sensed that they were about to fall off the Kangshung face and he was right. By stopping to huddle up he saved all their lives! The following year, Anatoli found Yasko’s body on an Indonesian expedition just meters from the face, and gave her a proper burial. Of course this says just as much about Anatoli’s character as Neal’s. Truly, they’re (were) two gems of human beings.

saund
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I am glad Neal mentioned Scott's illness. I don't know why Scott went up there after all his clients had summited.

ValeskaTruax
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Neal gives me big Viggo Mortensen vibes, humble but a vastly intelligent man of the world. Also, Neal shouldn't sell himself short. He's a professional, accomplished, veteran, all around sportsman. Other climbing legends are just climbers; Neal's a rare breed, a unicorn, where he can stick with legends from multiple pursuits. His time ski racing in college and everything else he does contributed to his notoriety. Everest 96 just gave his humanitarian side a chance to shine. He's one of the true heros that day, he and Mike grooms were the true leadership in both presence and action from start to finish with that whole tragedy.

elysiumsnakefarm