Did we solve the issues with my Mamiya C33? Another photowalk on film.

I went on a photowalk in a beautiful bluebell forest and shot a roll of recently expired Kodak Portra 160 and a few photos on Kodak Gold.

My other youtube channel: / @knottingels

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[FreakTimmah]

I have a Mamiya C3 that came with a 105mm lens and it's also difficult to focus because the depth of field is so thin. This camera with the 65mm lens is completely different, it's still f/3.5 but it's much easier to focus as you don't have to extend the bellows nearly as much. The images it makes are nice too because it's more of a wide-normal and there isn't any noticeable distortion like you'd typically find on a wide angle lens. You're getting some good shots despite the challenges though, keep at it!

[Austinite]

I have a C330 with a 55 and 180 4.5. These cameras definitely have a learning curve. Thanks for the video.

[TiliTheSleepStealer]

Ooh interesting, my C220 gets "stuck" too sometimes. It's good to see it's fixable. Dankje!

[chuckmathis]

Glad you got it working again. As a long term user of this camera I find that a strap can be useful. Granted carrying that brick on a strap around your neck is not remotely comfortable, but the strap will let you use the weight of the camera to help steady shots when longer shutter speeds are needed. I never really bonded with the 80mm lens but use the 65mm, 105mm and 135mm a lot.

[paullacotta]

I’m really happy to find your channel. Your presentation is outstanding and easy to watch. Thank you!

[andyvan]

if you do have focus issues, try shims on the shutter body, aka adjust the shutter to the lens board, if it doesn't have shims it may need them, as the focus is not just the viewing lens, but if its wrong in the SHOT, then the lenses aren't synced together like they should be, either the lens board isn't sitting flat at the bottom, aka crud in between the two, or as I said earlier, the shutter needs to be shimmed away from the lens board. If thats Ok, then you need to shim under the viewfinder ground glass, or check the mirror stops {the focus calibration of the viewing optics}, either of these may fix it.

[BarwickGreen]

Glad you are getting on better with the 135mm, in my opinion a very useful and under-rated lens for this system.

[gabgallant]

Beautiful photos! My Mamiya C330 actually had the same issue. Turns out there is foam under the viewfinder screen that needs to be replaced. I replaced mine but the 80mm lens still didn't work too well. Just like you, the 135MM nailed focus easily. It's sooo weird.

[andreasbracke]

As i told you, i love this cam. I use the 65mm and have this 180mm. I got my mamiya with a fixed proflex viewfinder on it, where you can look through. But this thing is dark, so its st difficult to take a Picture in focus. I prefer the 100asa Kodak ektar, that is a professional film rather than this hobvy kodak gold200. Try it! You will probably love it. My 8mm lens has some issues, i will probably have to send it to cleaning. You are a great Channel!

[eddielau]

Oh by the way, I noticed as you load your 120 film in the Mamiya camera. Perhaps try the following method. After you take the paper leader backing and attach it to the takeup spool in the camera. With one hand on the film winding crank. Use your other hand with two fingers to hold down lightly on the 120 black plastic film edge spool. Just to put a very slight tension on the roll. As you wind the crank to get the paper leader backing onto the film take up spool. Sometimes as your cranking / winding. Slightly take your fingers that your using on your other hand to pull very very slightly in the opposite direction. All of the above will tighten the 120 film wind better. So film will be more flat vs loose from takeup spool from film spool. I just remembered this method that I used to use on my Mamiya C330 Pro F.
Last, the film pressure plate that pushes the film against the inside of the camera body. After time it will flatten downward with less pressure against the film. Once and a while. Open the camera with no film in it. Take two fingers and hold each end of the film pressure plate and pull upward slightly evenly on both ends. This helps position the pressure plate back to its more original position. I learned all the above from another fashion photographer by in the 1980's. He also shot with a Mamiya C330 Pro F.
The above to tips, might help with the issue of sharper focus. Film has to be tight and flat as it's exposed.
Best of Luck!

[eddielau]

You are a very good photographer. I admire that you shoot with a Mamiya Twin Lens Reflex Camera. I used to shoot fashion photography in New York with a Mamiya C330 F Pro. That was back in the 1980's. It's a completely different perspective and experience shooting with a Mamiya Twin Lens camera. Now I use a rebuilt Kiev 88 camera with a digital back. I do enjoy shooting film. However it's so expensive film and processing in New York City. Even mailing to be processed in another part of the United States is expensive. Developing it on my own, the chemicals are expensive to in New York. Please keep shooting and producing videos. Your an inspiration in my photography world 🎉

[markgoostree]

I have not shot medium format since '62... about. I don't have a medium format camera. so, maybe I should consider fixing that. Glad you have your camera working again. Not fun when they stop doing camera stuff.

[danijel]

Well, that is one lovely love story.🌹

[paulodefeyter]

Els, Greetings from a Antwerpen's Hobokenaar currently living in Portugal. Listen, the focus issues with the Mamiya is you and the way you hold it. I have about 10 TLRs (Mamiya, Rolleiflex etc etc) and they are meant to shoot on the hip with the back passed against you. Like that I'm getting sharp f2.8 shots (With the hasselblad) and super-mega-detailed images with both my Mamiya C220 and C3 . You are shooting with her hanging from your neck, but you are hunched over her, making her "free to swing"... Just keep your back straight, hold her on your neck with the back against your belly!

[thierryfontaine]

Bonjour,
content que vous ayez résolu vos problèmes depuis la dernière vidéo.
Le 80mm est une très bonne optique, mais c'est vrai qu'à grande ouverture et à faible distance, la profondeur de champ est si faible que ça peut poser quelques problèmes au début.
J'ai fait des petites cartes plastifiées sous Excel qui reprennent les valeurs de profondeur de champ de la notice, et ce pour les cinq focales dont je dispose. Comme ça je peux toujours vérifier en cas de doute avant de déclencher, ou choisir la profondeur de champ que je veux en fonction de ma composition. C'est une habitude vite prise.
Avec cet appareil on peut aussi faire des vues très rapprochées facilement, même si le long tirage ne facilite pas la prise en main. Le trépied est bienvenu! Pour cet usage, je préfère le 105 mm, il est très bien. Et sur le C33, l'index qui donne à la fois l'indice de soufflet et la correction de parallaxe est bien pratique.
Bonne soirée, Thierry

[MarcoNedermeijer]

Great video and i am glad that the camera is fixed. I love the photos.

[SomeUnremarkableGuy]

Maybe your focusing screen is not aligned properly. Probably foam that sits underneath deteriorated over the time, which is normal. I don`t know what focusing screen you have, but you can checkout at the split prism focusing screen, it can be helpful. Though I personally still prefer matte focusing screen.

[GalleryDarkroomLimeLight]

Mamiya C33 is a good camera. I also use it.

[RandyMoe]

I have 3. The best a C3 with made from soup can metal Not kidding! NO tripods