How to remove a Ford escape alternator removal the easiest way!

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I have a later version of this video underneath my Ford playlist and Ford Escape playlist on my channel that’s a little bit more descriptive even though it has much worse audio!!!

This video is going to show you how to remove the alternator the proper way. they’re two different ways of removing the alternator but the other way could end in disaster and this is the simplest easiest way to actually do it. it may looks like it’s complicated but it’s NOT! it’s also going to show you how to remove the axle on the passenger side ( 10:05 in if that what your looking for) of your Ford escape ,Mazda tribute or Mercury mariner. You should watch the entire video before performing the procedure because I correct myself during the video I made the video while I was doing it and I showed you how to use your tools to be able to get the parts apart the easiest very much hope it was helpful and I wish you the best day possible.

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Also you can follow me on clays ac and auto repair on facebook And if you have any questions it’s easier to message me straight through Facebook

Why should you Subscribe to my channel ? I constantly make these videos that show you how to use your tools and show the techniques that we use in our auto repair shop every day. And all it does is help me send you stuff . I do not sell your information I do not solicit you. all it does is add a couple 100 thousands of a cent to me . And it cost you Nothing ! you would only be helping me . And hopefully i was able to help you !! So please be kind and enjoy!!
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sharpcarco
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You deserve a like. The alternator is in the worst possible place for replacement. Thank you for posting.

oby-
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As an auto mechanic, with a lift, and ALL the specialty tools you can think of, videos like this is still greatly appreciate. these escape alternators are the worst design excluding some European and foreign one. anywho thank you very much for going into so much detail i was able to quote my customer before even looking at it :)

dubb
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Appreciate this video man. The one Mechanic told me he had to take apart stuff from the top, this is a way easier way man.

Fortuna_
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Clay, thanks for posting this. You seemed to have brought together all the good tips from the other videos that covered this procedure. After watching this I got inspired to tackle the bad alternator on my 2003 Mazda Tribute. The key instructions; get the drive-shaft out of the way in one piece (fairly easy), take the belt off the A/C compressor for slack, and loosen the motor mount so the engine can be jacked up to create a larger space to get the unit out/in. Also, rotating the alternator in place to get at the battery cable and control connection was easier than fumbling around behind and not being able to see what you're doing. Took me about 4 hours, would have been tons easier with a lift (instead of crawling around on my knees) but it got done. Thanks again.

knauregriffiths
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awesome dude very thorough very good video I have a 2001 Ford escape XLT V6 and the alternator just went out it's originally 33, 000 miles that's why I bought it but it was fully corroded and it started having problems. thank you so much for your video, and yes the best way is to remove the axle, I am a retired aviation mechanic and you're very good at what you do

mannypalancar
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I just did this job today on a 2002 Escape. This video was very helpful, I really appreciate it! I agree that taking off the cv axle is the way to do it. I really appreciate your tip about not separating the cv axle and the intermediate shaft and just removing those nuts, that made the axle removal pretty simple!!!!
Here are a few pointers I might add:
1) I highly recommend using a 1/4 ratchet to re-install that alternator bracket. For folks like me who tend to crank a little too hard on a ratchet/wrench, it would cause a lot of heartache to break a bolt off into the block!
2) I like to spray a little WD-40 (or similar) onto the plastic electrical connector (in this case, the one on the alternator). I'm sure someone will say this is a horrible idea and will ruin this or that---I've done it many, many times and have never had a problem. It helps the plastic tab unlock easier.
3) Google "2002 ford escape belt routing diagram" or similar to find the belt path for re-installing the belt
4) I wouldn't waste much time trying to get the alternator out without removing the alternator bracket (which he does show the removal of in this video, thankfully) and I certainly would go this route (removing the cv axle, etc.) as opposed to trying to get it out from the top. It's just plain not going to come out without removing that bracket, and you don't wanna risk damaging the two small studs that hold the cv axle (or actually the intermediate axle).
5) use a block of wood on your jack when raising the engine (after removing the mount bolt as shown in this video), if you put the saddle of the jack directly on the oil pan, it will destroy it

mattmgarza
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Thank you very much Im a novice and your video made it possible for me to remove and replace alternator myself at home in the driveway. Took me a few hours to do, only because I wanted to make sure where to put everything back in.

abespassiveincomechannel
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Thanks so much for your escape videos. They made my husband's job so much easier.

AmyHamner-rw
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I helped a friend remove his and I took it out from the top and changed it out within 3.5 hrs. Didn't have to do all that to remove the alternator. Just unclipped two connections and removed the vacuum canister on the firewall. Wiggled it out and walla reversed procedure and installed in no time. But this is a good video.

jakeohio
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I just did this using your video. It was a lot harder than it initially looked, but then again I have very minimal experience with this stuff. I got it done though, thanks for the walk through.

TylerIsSound
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Looks like it'd be easier to crash the thing and report it stolen

Joshcheyka
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Thanks! Did it in my driveway in 4 hours, just like you said. Took the intermediate shaft out with the axle, easy. Left the tie rod connected. Luckily everything came apart pretty easily. The Clay way is the best way.

joesailor
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Never seen this video before, but I just did this yesterday to my mom's car. It is a 2003 Mazda Tribute V6 4 wheel drive. It's literally the same car. This job can be done from the top with the waitlist time from having to do any actual work. You have to take off the canister at the back of the firewall, the electronic throttle on the right side of the car, and have to disconnect a couple of the wire harnesses and one vacuum line. Everything you're going to remove is going to be 8 mm 10 mm and 13 mm. The three bolts are accessible if you remove the plastic cover around the alternator behind the tie rod against the frame which are just press in plastic rivets, and there are three of them, you can remove them with a flat head screwdriver, also you have to take the passenger right side wheel off. I removed the intake (8mm bolts, leave in place) you just have to shift it around a little bit as you try to pull the alternator up from the bottom after everything is disconnected. You can access the 10 mm nut that is on the main wire from the alternator to the battery from the top. Once you have the alternator loose you can Jimmy it around so that you can get to the wire harness which only takes a flathead to remove pressing in towards the back of the alternator from the pulley side of it and turning it slightly to free it. I was able to do this by myself in about 3 hours. This will avoid taking any axle shaft or tie rod removal saving you an immense amount of time. I'm not saying you're not going to cuss three or four times, but it will save you time. And just an extra tip, whenever you are pulling the alternator up the two bolts side needs to be facing the driver side and the one both side needs to be towards the passenger and the pulley is going to have to be facing up, also kinda moving around the loose intake for adjustment room . This is a lot better do with two people as one can be pushing from the bottom but I only had myself so this had to suffice for what I needed to do. Wish you the best of luck you can comment back if anybody has any questions about anything. Good luck everyone.

carlossoto
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Doing mine at 300, 000 kms and I think this will be a huge help. Service manual says to drop entire sub frame. Thanks for the video.

roddueck
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Excellent tutorial!! I am going to do one tomorrow. I've been fixing cars for about 30 years now, and I'm not looking forward to this one😅 Thanks!!!!

anthonymoore
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I'm about to do this myself, glad to see it done the right way before I attempt it myself!

Maelstrom
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I'm going to have my work cut for me when i start this project on my girlfriend's escape thank you for the video have a merry christmas and happy new year

trevormorrison
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Thanks again for the help Clay. I got her done. It was by no means easy and I will hurt for days but me and my bank account thanks you. lol. The biggest snag I hit was not being able to get the alternator off of the top stud. I tried for almost 30 minutes and ended up just unscrewing the stud from the engine block. After reinstalling with just the 2 bottom bolts and verifying it all worked I went and got a 4.5" bolt and used that on the top. After backing out of the driveway for a test drive I noticed the alternator rubber boot ripped in half and laying in the drive way so I had to order a replacement boot.

tcul
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Thanks for posting. This was very helpful. This approach is not as scary and difficult as it looks at first. Seems much easier than the top extraction method. I am not a mechanic and I did not have too much trouble with this job. I had all the tools required except the 32mm socket for the hub nut and an E8 socket for the top mounting stud. I did not raise the engine or remove the bracket. I unbolted the alternator and was then able to move it around and take the three 8mm nuts off of the plastic shroud, remove the shroud, and then the alternator came out of the hole with only a little finagling, without raising the engine. Don't try to take the shroud off with the alternator bolted in place, that is an exercise in frustration. One other helpful hint, take the top alternator nut off and take the stud out before taking out the lower bolts. It's an E8 socket for the stud (at least it was in the 2007 I was working on). You have to pop the snorkel off of the shroud to get to the top nut easily. It snaps onto the shroud with tabs on both sides of the tube. Squeeze the tabs and it pops right off. Good luck!

bdwatson