The Tool I Should Have Built Years Ago!

This simple little bender is going to be super handy, check out how I made it.

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[peanut]

Solve the distance between pins issue by making “sleeve-overs”. Same inner diameter, sufficient enough to slide over your pins, but different outer diameter sized from small to large according the round stock diameter, or the flat stock gauge thickness.

[kenpruvit]

5:29 Don't put pins closer together, just slide a bushing over the pin to take up space, you could also slide a bushing over the other pin for a slightly bigger radius bend

[ForestWoodworks]

I love how Tim reveals his mistake and critiques it, then everyone genuinely comments on how to correct or do a work-around with the current finished piece. Now, everyone has more insight and Tim has ideas for further videos and exploration. Love it!

[ronaldmorrison]

After you have drilled the first hole to the 5/16" size, remove the drill from the chuck and chuck the tap in place of it. Use the chuck wrench to turn the chuck by hand as you press the tap into the hole. Guaranteed to be started straight. Once started, release the tap from the chuck while still threaded into the hole and use the tap wrench to finish it.

[glenv]

Great job! Here's a couple pointers for ya. Use a chamfer bit after you drill you tap sized hole. This helps the tap start, and no deburring afterwards. Also try a 2 or 3 flute tap instead of a 4 flute tap. 2 and 3 flute are much stronger for creating threads. 4 flute is better for repairing or chasing threads.

[SAHBfan]

An American that gives dimensions in METRIC as well as inches? 😵😵😵😵😵
There is hope in this World! 😎

[theeverydaymakers]

When you mentioned that you'd wished you'd make the pins closer, the way you made it two pieces that slide together, it would seem you're actually better off that you think. You could make a second small piece to swap them to let you accommodate for different size materials when you want it. Good project!

[memirandawong]

What I especially like, is that you're one of the first that admits you don't use / have all the latest wiz-bang tools when showing us how to make things. This is in keeping with the reality of many of your viewers, myself included. Often times, frustrated, I'm like "...yeah, well if I had a $8, 000 whatever..." I could make this thing too. LOL.... You keep it simple and keep it real. I like that.

[legdfishman]

Great project! I'll need to make one of these for myself.
One thing...
Shoulder bolts have a slight radius and don't seat perfectly in holes. If you countersink your holes prior to tapping, you'll eliminate the need to deburr and the shoulder bolts will seat properly and be less likely to snap. Thanks for sharing!

[pcorona]

Professionally done, no unnecessary comments, short and to the point; great work!

[OOMAN]

Great little fixture! If you want to stop breaking taps, you need to use the correct drill size for the material you're tapping. Using a 5/16" drill for a 3/8"-16 tap is fine if you're putting it into Aluminum, Brass, Plastic, etc., where you want a 75% thread. The correct drill size for steel is a "Q" (0.332) drill, which will give you a 50% thread, which is standard for steel. That 0.020" might not seem like a lot, but it makes a huge difference when tapping holes. If you don't have letter drills, you should at least use a 21/64" drill which is only 0.004" smaller than the Q. Spend the money on the correct drill, it's a lot cheaper than breaking taps...

[melgross]

One hint about taps. NEVER, and I mean NEVER buy “hand taps”. I know, supposedly, hand taps are for tapping by hand. But actually, they’re just easier to make, and so were the first type of taps that were made. But they’re also the worse kind of tap. They require the most pressure to tap with, and as you mentioned, they require that half back turn every forward turn, or so, to clear the chips.

Instead, buy spiral point taps. They cut one continuous length of material, which is ejected through the rear of the hole, forwards to the cut. They’re also known as machine taps, and occasionally, gun taps. Because since they cut continuously, they can be used under power. But these are great for hand tapping. You get smoother threads, and with less torque needed, there is less tendency to break them.

[jasondk]

Another way to avoid breaking taps is use 2 or 3 fluted taps, they have thicker webs between the flutes. Now there is a drawback that fewer flutes creates more tool pressure. Great tool think I'll make one! Thanks!

[stevenlarsen]

I always chamfer my hole before tapping the threads. It makes it easier to start the tap and gives a better, stronger fit up. To change the gap I use my 1/2" drive sockets or bushings that works even better. Great video. Thank you.

[atsernov]

A tip for tapping holes, get yourself a HSS countersink drill bit and put a bit of a chamfer on the hole you will tap.

It makes starting a smidge easier and you'll have no burr to clean up after tapping. Also, if you make the chamfer a little larger than the thread size it'll give it a nice look and make the bolt easier to start.

[DG-hwzy]

Cool tool I think I’ll make one. But I won’t use cap bolts or tap the holes or anything fancy. Just going to weld some rods into the holes. Cheers!

[Mcdevilbird]

Thank you for saying both mm and inches. Makes it easier for the rest of the world to enjoy your videos :)

[jackdaniels]

This guys video about bending metal is by far the best. hes straight to the point no music to do ya head in very easy to watch and learn

[DStein-jnls]

I really enjoy practical videos like this! Thank you for the details!

[dcsensui]

Instead of drilling and tapping, then installing bolts, you could also drill for plain steel pins. Insert the pins about 2/3 of the way into the steel plate. Then weld the pins in place from behind. You sort of did that anyway. This would eliminate the need to thread the hole.