How to remove the third row jump seats in a 2013 Tesla Model S

This video shows how to remove the third row jump seats in a 2013 Tesla Model S, and some problems you may encounter along the way. In theory, this is a simple task: remove two torx screws/bolts, take out the seats, and optionally take out the two side anchor points by removing four more torx screws/bolts. Let's just say that nothing is quite as easy at it looks at first glance. There is so much thread lock to break free that it is very easy to mangle and strip the screw heads (or outright detach the entire head from the body of the screw!). So, make sure you use the correct size torx on your socket wrench, keep it perfectly straight and fully seated, and use a large-enough wrench to give you plenty of leverage to break free of the thread lock. Bottom line is that with the correct tools and plenty of leverage you can do this yourself.

In the end, it was worth it for me to reclaim the extra trunk space. I'm going to get replacement screws/bolts, and keep everything together in case I ever need to reinstall the jump seats.

This is a 2013 Tesla Model S 85, built in late August 2013, VIN P20,xxx, with about 104,000 miles on it as of the time of this video.

In case you need it, the part numbers for the replacement bolts/nuts are:

BOLT PF M8X20 PC 98 ADH MAT; Part # 1014747-00-B (4 of them)

BLT,BFLG,TRX,M10X28.4[10.9]-SM-NP-08; Part #1022449-00-A (2 of them)

BARREL NUT, M10; Part # is 1109021-00-B (old part #2006869-SO-A) (2 of them)

NOTE: Don’t buy one of these seats second-hand unless you also buy and install the extra steel reinforcement crossmember that mounts to the frame under the rear bumper trim. This is a necessary safety feature that came with Model S’s ordered with the third row jump seats. The pertinent parts are: REAR CROSSMEMBER SVC; Part # 1015811-S0-B and BUMPER BEAM, REAR; Part # 1041685-00-A.

[SunnyInsights]

Thanks for the great tutorial. Just removed the seats from my own for the weight savings and the extra storage space. I left the side attachment loops as I occasionally find them useful to tie things down in the trunk. I also had some trouble with one of the bolts and also had to use a screw extractor!! I had to drill deep into the bolt and use a hammer as I wrenched the extractor.

One potential pitfall not mentioned in your video is to make sure folks use a Torx Plus bit and not a plain Torx bit. The Torx Plus bits have a slightly different taper and shape and can help with removal and preventing bolt heads from being stripped. The bolts in my vehicle fit a TP45 bit.

To cover the ugly bolt holes and bare metal I created a 3d-printable plastic plate, available to anyone interested.
The design is up on Cults3D. Just search for Tesla rear facing seats. Youtube won't let me post a link.

[AzubuikeWhigham]

Gonna try this myself before going to pay a mechanic. Thanks!

[Trilobite]

I’d leave the side anchor points & use them as hold down points for bulky cargo. I’ve had my 2015 Model S for almost a whole week & want to remove the 3rd row jump seats - I don’t need them.

[eastmanresearch]

Are you selling this seat? If so, I'm interested for my 2013 model s.