How to Reassemble a Ford FE Engine | Tinkering with Tony | Motorhead Sweethearts

preview_player
Показать описание
This is the final episode of Tony reassembling his motor! The next steps are finishing up putting the motor together. Soon we will be able to watch this motor fired up in his race-car!

If you have and questions please comment below and we can help you out as best we can! Like, Share & Subscribe!

Follow us at:
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

I think you might know what you’re doin. All sorted out that 410 like a gearhead. And you first hand, and camera girl not only love you dearly, they managed to help, and learned a lot from the old man. Congrats on the new torque wrench. And that rotary phone ring!

You got it all goin on. ❤

Bullet
Автор

I have a soft spot for the FE and have had several. Torque monsters and durable, if a little thirsty. Unless I was doing a period correct restoration, I’d roll with the 385 series (429, 460) big block.
Cheers

tomdavis
Автор

Make sure the dowel goes through the gear and the fuel pump eccentric that has a tang to hold the dowel.

Bbbbad
Автор

Install the distributor before you torque those bolts on the intake or even before you put those bolts in the distributor might not go in once you have that manifold bolted down

Randy-fz
Автор

Big waterslot goes to rear, passenger side gasket is upside down. If the passenger head gasket has the slot in front the passenger side head will overheat.

Bbbbad
Автор

Flat tappet cam and lifter cores have gone downhill since the OEMs/car manufacturers have gone roller, you read so many horror stories of flat cams and collapsed lifters (which take out fresh rebuilds). Retrofit roller cams/lifters aren’t inexpensive but provide a great piece of mind (not to mention unbelievable performance).

dragginwagon
Автор

👍put blue loctite on the pick up bolts.

Bbbbad
Автор

Cheap insurance add blue lock tite to the bolt threads for the oil pump and pick up tube.😉I know I did on mine

seanjohnson
Автор

Dip stick tube is only thing i forgot on the '62 Grand Prix rebuild.. lol

timarb
Автор

Thank you for your service in the “Nam”

On FE builds, the cam should always be put in FIRST before the rotating assembly!! On a FE motor build, the crank and rods will not interfere with the lobes on the camshaft while rotating the crank & rod assembly before timing set is installed!!
By installing the cam first, you can guide the cam into position with much more control and accuracy, thereby eliminating another possible cause of cam failure!
Cam failures can be cause by “skimming” the lobes against the cam bearings when you install the cam without proper guidance!
We cringe when we see cams installed this way!
AND, every motor build should include camshaft degreeing! We have seen cams that are 6-7 degrees retarded when installed straight up, creating a poorly performing engine!

FESpecialties
Автор

I have never seen the crank ID, I have a 410 crank they are the same as a 428 CJ. The SCJ is different.

Bbbbad
Автор

whats your experience with comp cams for the 390, some same they have issues

ramseytrain
Автор

Clearly forgot to loctite the oil pump bolts..those will be in the pan one day.

FordTorinoMercuryCyclone
Автор

4 long and the halo bolts are short.DO THE 4 bottom first.

Bbbbad
Автор

The motor will be wiped out I only use roller cams now.

Bbbbad
Автор

NO NO NO N O NO NO NO NO NO NO NO, you're alreadyt MESSED UP the timing chain. That SPACER DOES NOT, I REPEAT DOES NOT get re-used. That spacer is ONLY used for assembly line upper gear. The spacer is BUILT ONTO the new upper timing gear. Your cam DOWEL is bottomed in too far, and not engaging the fuel pump cam, your front intake dowel that aligns the intake manifold has been cut flush or hammered into the block so far it won't engauge. SO MANY mistakes here. Don't do what this guy does.

nevetslegasi
Автор

What’s the book you’re referring to I also need said book for when I pull my fe out to rebuild

fishead