Modern vs. Classic Suits - Which Style is More Dapper?

We determine the differences between modern and classic suits. Which suit -- suits you best?

#suit #notsponsored #shorts

GUIDES YOU DO WANT TO MISS:

There are a lot of great things about living in the modern world -- advanced technology, miracle medicines, HBO. But one thing we here at the Gentleman's Gazette aren't too crazy about is modern men's fashion.

Whether it's the over-casualization of men's clothing or the reliance on cheap synthetic materials, it's just not for us. instead, we think classic men's style is the way to go.

The modern suit with its slim lapels inferior and often synthetic fabric and skin type fit, looks like something made more for a pencil than for an elegant man. Compare that to suits from the 1930s which were cut fuller and made with heavy fabrics to achieve an elegant drape, wide shoulders that make even Batman look like a prepubescent boy, and stylish high-rise trousers that taper toward the shoes.

We have comprehensive guides about modern and classic 1930s fashion. Make sure to check them out!

[thespian]

Can’t beat high rise trousers and structured shoulders in a jacket!

[PB-nvce]

Boys: tight cheap made suits with thin lapels
MEN: sophisticated traditional menswear

[theobaldlolworth]

You're right- it simply looks better!

[briang]

Classically inspired is the key, I'd argue. Going for a very classic fuller (very generous?) cut doesn't work as well with fabrics that don't drape like the heavier classic wools do. "Modern-classic" is my target.

[JoaoPedroGallavotti]

These suits from 1930 are the most beautiful to me!

[stephanesurprenant]

The head cutter at Redmayne 1860 explained how he used to cut suits at Anderson and Shappard's. One of the key point he mentionned is that comfort in part comes from the ease of movement afforded by extra fabric placed around the arm hole.

All sleeves are bigger than their arm holes, so the excess has to be folded in somewhere. Usually, it is under the arm, going slightly towards the back to hide it with the exception of more recent Napolitan tailors -- the spella camacia shoulder refers to how the shoulder fabric folds over the sleeve fabric in the seam, but people often use that term to also talk about the excess fabric gathered on top which creates ripples which is a more recent trend. In any event, A&S would use slightly unusual sleeves and they would gather more fabric under and in the back, near the shoulder blade. They would also cut the chest on the jacket to have a little bit more fabric also near the arm. The consequence is that the jacket feels considerably less constricting when reaching out, but you can't do it without sacrificing how flat and clean the jacket appears, particularly in the back.

And that's his core comment: you have a trade off between how clean a jacket looks and how comfortable it is because the excess fabric is what buys you the range of motion.

He also has comments about fabric choices. Heavier fabrics last longer, do not wrinkle nearly as much and drape better. Finer fabrics look better and feel softer, but they get damaged more easily. One reason you can find 80 year old suits that are still wearable is that they used coarser weaves in heavier weights -- it was much more hard wearing.

[poolboyinla]

They just made the body look so much better.

[chief]

I like going for Italian-inspired modern trousers for everyday and classic for the real events^^

[willnilly]

I have finally found people who are in agreement with me on fashion! Thank you!!

[regsantotomas]

While I certainly lean towards classic suits and design, there are aspects of contemporary design and style that is appealing. Looking at the extremes of modern vs classic as a binary ignores the vast gray area in between.

[Guitarorpheo]

I wish I could pull it off but I work in a factory. A Henley shirt, clean jeans, and brogues is already a billion times too formal in such a setting.

[fdw]

Can't really argue with any of that!!❤

[calfencer]

I thought I was dapper wearing my father's 60s black thin lapel suit in the 80s with white spats to my girlfriend's prom. 😐🥴🙄. You'll never guess who made the spats... Brooks Brothers...😊

[PinakiGuptaAppu]

In certain areas, temperatures can occasionally soar to 47 degrees Celsius. Anyone wearing an old woollen jacket will need to seek refuge in cold storage.

[notsomething]

Well, most Edwardian era suits were also cut EXTREMELY tight and were simply fantastic, so that specific aspect of modern suits isn't bad in my eyes

[THELORDVODKA]

I dont necessarily dress up gentleman full time but when it comes to suits, moderen suits are absolute horror. I cant believe that is being sold as "quality stuff" these days.

Classic, slightly looser fit with wide shoulders and loose enough that when you lift your arms, your belly doesnt pop out haha

[SergioR]

That suit around the 0:52 mark looked fantastic

[banjopiggottwright]

Say what you want about the 1900s - 1960s, but you can't deny that they understood the meaning of dressing nicely and stylishly.

I'm slowly but surely building up my wardrobe to eventually be made up of nothing, but bespoke and/or well fitted clothing.

[rlkinnard]

Suits fitted in Italy or France, more closely, are flattering, more flattering than suits of the 40s and 50s that hid your body.

[KomradeKrusher]

Not gonna lie, Tracksuit Sven has got a certain Guy Ritchie movie gangster swag going on... 😎