Vintage Tudor Submariner 7928 'Ghost Bezel' - Vintage of the Week Episode 13 | Bob's Watches

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00:00 INTRO
00:22 Wrist Check
01:12 Vintage Tudor Submariner 7928
01:42 Case Back
02:53 Tudor/Rolex History
05:01 Tudor 7928 Dial
06:21 Patina
06:53 Aged Dial
07:16 Value
08:28 Tudor 7928 Price
08:57 Movement
09:51 Comparison with Rolex Submariner 5512
10:15 Availability
10:46 OUTRO

Join us each week on the Bob’s Watches YouTube channel as we examine a different remarkable vintage watch from our inventory.

THE VINTAGE TUDOR SUBMARINER 7928

For collectors who appreciate the aesthetic of the vintage Rolex Submariner but don’t want to spend massive sums of money on one, the vintage Tudor Submariner is an excellent alternative. These watches feature a similar design set as the Rolex model, often using many Rolex components, such as the case and bracelet.

Let’s take a closer look at what makes this Tudor 7928 Submariner so exceptional.

THE TUDOR/ROLEX CONNECTION

Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf created the Tudor company to bring the same quality as the Rolex brand to the market but at a lower price point by using Rolex parts and outsourced movements.

So, it doesn’t come as a surprise that the vintage Tudor Submariner and Rolex Submariner are quite similar in design. Even their cases are rated the same waterproofness for Tudor to uphold the same exceptional quality as its parent company, Rolex.

The main difference between the two watches lies within the case and Tudor’s outsourced movement.

TUDOR 7928 VS. ROLEX 5512 & 5513

When ref. 7928 hit the market in the late 1950s, it brought with it a larger case with crown guards. Depending on the year produced, there are even examples on the market with square-shaped crown guards.

Comparing it to the similar Rolex models 5512 and 5513, the Tudor ref. 7928 is nearly identical, featuring similar Mercedes-style hands and a dateless dial. It even has a similar black rotating bezel.

Looking closer at the dial, you will notice that the text on ref. 7928 is different than Rolex’s offerings. Often referred to as “Smiley Dials,” the text features “Rotor” and “Self-Winding” under the Submariner logo, with the “Self-Winding” text positioned in a curved script, hence the nickname “Smiley Dial.”

Tudor recently used this charming text placement on some of their modern Black Bay offerings, bringing some history back to their current catalog.

It’s a popular vintage Tudor that is truly a joy to hunt for on the secondary market. It boasts many design set options, including multiple dial, bezel, and crown guard variations.

FEATURES – THE DIAL

Our example of the Tudor Submariner features a handsome chapter ring dial with a matte finish. It has aged over time to a unique dark grey hue and has developed a lovely patina. Although the luminous plots have also aged over the years, they still glow brightly when exposed to UV light.

The dial features silver text and the aforementioned “Smiley Dial.” You’ll also notice that our example features the Rose logo instead of the standard Tudor Shield logo, a feature that the brand stopped using in the late 1960s.

THE CASE

The case shows typical signs of wear, including some light knicks and scratches. It also appears to have been polished at some point.

Most notably, it comes with what many avid vintage watch collectors refer to as a “Ghost Bezel” with a nicely faded insert and long 5. The bezel on the Tudor featured in this video also features a replacement pearl and some light scratches. Overall, the bezel ring remains sharp.

Additionally, the accompanying acrylic crystal is a very typical feature found on many vintage watches that appears to be in clean condition.

This example is outfitted with an original Twinlock waterproof crown, not the Triplock variety. We know this because it does not have three dots under the coronet.

Hard at work within the case is a self-winding ETA 390 movement, which was produced in-house by Rolex based on the brand’s cal. 1530 movement. It is considered one of the finest vintage Tudor movements.

Overall, this is a very unique variety of the Tudor Sub. It isn’t likely we’ll ever see another quite like this one!
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Vietnam War Veteran here. I was just a volunteer in 1965 and bought a 7928 the following year from a PX in Saigon to celebrate the end of my first tour... The watch crawled in an abominable amount of shit the next two tours, mud rain sun beer sex drugs and blood! The movement has undergone 3 revisions since 1966... ​​The dial is now brown like the bezel. There is still a glow emanating from the watch at night if I have worn it under strong light. A bit like a past that does not want to go out...

modernworldiscrap
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The 7928 used the exact same case, crown, bezel and case back as the 5513/5512. The only difference is the engraving on the case and case back and the use or the Fleurier cal. 390 instead of the 15xx series in the Rolex. The obvious other difference is the dial but even the hour plots are nearly identical.

hourgmtchannel
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Vintage rules I have a 73 9121 38mm blue dial and bezel I love my watch. Very beautiful Tudor submariner.

seikoskx
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I have a 66 7928….where to get a reliable service on the unsupported calibre 390?

UAL
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I have two, a 71, and a 73 with the roulette dial. Both are usn issued, both have the ghost bezel.
What are they worth?

georgeversluis