Ceramic Stove Element Won't Heat - Troubleshooting | Repair & Replace

Radiant surface element not working? In this episode of Repair & Replace, Vance shows how to troubleshoot a ceramic stove element that isn't heating. If one cooktop burner is not heating up then it's likely an issue with the surface element, wires or the heat switch. This videos shows how to test each component with a multimeter.

More detailed videos here:

This applies to Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Maytag, General Electric, and Samsung ranges.

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00:00 Intro
01:00 How it Works
02:21 What You'll Need
02:47 Getting Started
03:51 Heat Switch Testing
06:20 Element Testing (Back)
07:24 Remove the Glass Top
08:28 Element Testing (Isolated)
10:49 Finishing Up

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[AmreSupply]

Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!

[ricardotroncoso]

I Just finished changing the smaller element on my kenmore stovetop. Thanks a lot! Your video just saved me $800 for a new range stove. The element was just $60. Quite a difference. Thanks again

[thundermicelouie]

Even though the infinite switch tested ok. It didn’t let the element heat up, so now I changed both switch and element and it solved the initial problem of unchanged element on all the way. Thanks

[yamspaine]

We have a Frigidaire from 2002. had a cracked cooktop and the dual element had burnt out.

the new element did not have the same wiring. Your video helped me realize how to test the new element and figure out that the high limit switch was different. I think I got the n and l1 backwards or did something to the warning element, but it seems to work.

There were all kinds of little springs that kept the elements off the brackets. mine was really hard to work on slide-in-range, it was all I could do to keep the elements sorted out and get it back in... and to top it off we couldnt find a glass cooktop replacement for the same model, but we found it rebranded and a different color/kenmore elite grey vs frigidare gallery white... we're ok having a black cooktop... as long as it works. the cabinets and floor were built around this, so it is hard to replace.

[walterbates]

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your time and expertise.

[mayur]

Best video… got exactly what i was looking for… liked and subscribed!! Keep up the good work…

[vivivo]

But only the switch for dual burner is not working properly if I set it in the highest level (9) with dual burner it will heat up but if I lower the level below 9 then it won’t be able to get the heat or if I switch to inner burner it will not have the heat either so what do you think in this situation?

[theapplethatjindropped]

I still have no idea what to do 😅I am not very smart at these kinds of things. The right big burner on my stovetop only heats up the outer part/ring of it. The inside part does not heat. Do you have a diagnosis or what I can do? 😊

[Michaelt]

Extremely well done video, but a remaining question for you. I replaced my infinate switch (single coil element), but the burner still stays on high heat only even when on low. Any ideas why this could still be happening? Thanks in advance !

[preetipokhriyal]

Thanks for your video. My burner element heat up once I twist the knob, but then quickly shuts down with the click sound every time. Please let me know if you know the reason and solution.

[jaseduar]

Hello, I have an electrolux stove with oven but the oven heats up but Noone of the four elements /burners heat up, what could be the problem?

[wasatchm]

any idea the problem if my burners are clicking on for about 20 seconds (heating up) and them clicking off (shutting off)(and repeating the cycle over and over)? on the left side of my whirlpool stove top I have a big burner up front and small burner in the back. I have one switch that turns on the front burner and another switch (DUAL) that I believe is suppose to heat both burners at the same time (if you have set the dial in DUAL MODE). in summary, when I turn on either one of those switches, the corresponding burners will TURN ON, but then FLIP OFF after 20 seconds. on the right side, the large front burner just won't come on at all (this burner stopped working months before the other burners started acting up). the back burner does the same as the left side burners. keeps flipping on and off. so I only have one burner that works. that left back burner. and it only works correctly when the dial is set to SINGLE MODE instead of dual mode. I hope the control board isn't bad. thanks

[vivivo]

Is the switch for touch pad will be the same as knob switch set up?

[bobjackson]

On my cooktop one element (after the initial heat up) can be seen to only power up for a second then it turns off (this repeats) where is the problem likely to be? If you set the heat setting to maximum, it does not turn off. The other elements behave normally and a clicking sound is heard with their power cycling. No noise from the faulty element.

[Norendius]

Hi there,
I went through the wire testing part, and it showed that H1 and H2 doesn't have a connection. I then tested the element, and the element is good. Is there a video on how to go further with the repair in this situation?

[tylera.]

What if you're getting a reading higher than 1 ohm? I have one switch reading 168 between L2 & H2, another reading 44. The rest are 0.

[Tonto]

What is the dish that holds the coils? What is it made out of?

[FlyAwayFlyHigh]

About multimeter, I have a tiny simple tester (it was $7). Can I use this one? Or do I need one like you use in the video?

[chrisreibold]

I have a kenmore 790.9641 electric range. The left front burner labeled "power burner" works but does not get as hot as it should. It won't boil water for example. The burner itself does not glow red. Could this still be a faulty burner or switch? Or something in the control board? Thanks in advance.

[jjarratt]

The manufacturer wants too much for a replacement for their heater. Can I use a less expensive one that fits?