How 3D Printing Could Save Tabletop Time!

Launch discount offer ends: October 4, 2024, 12:00 AM (PDT)

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Twitter @TabletopTime

[TabletopTime]

Launch discount offer ends: October 4, 2024, 12:00 AM (PDT)

[CatRaph]

To get rid of seam-lines: Take a note from gundam models! Make it an actual seam-line, a groove. Then make the large flat connecting surface slightly recessed. That way the shrinkage will be hidden in the recessed hole, and the outer seam will look like the edge of armor that we can panel line and drybrush/edge highlight!
This will also let it print much better even on printers that aren´t perfectly calibrated.

[andydogdad]

Since the "table top time is in trouble'" video.... you guys seem like youve had a real new spark of life to the channel! Youve been making some really good and different videos! Im very optimistic for you guys! Keep up the good work my dudes

[motherreaper]

Y'kno, before I even watch this, I want to say that's a really good thumbnail, I don't care for most of the pulled faces, but this one is amazing.

[Slipk]

"Murray's cheeky lil paint break" should be the name of a series on the channel

[edrozenrozen]

Guys, persevere and persist!
You can do it!

[alankelly]

Love your content, this is my first comment in my YouTube history and I’m over fifty. Hope this helps your engagement scores. Keep up the fight to survive.

[aartadventure]

6:09 It is recommended to remove supports BEFORE curing, not AFTER. As shown here, there are wet and possibly uncured sections that are exposed when these supports are removed. The UV light was unable to cure it. Additionally, supports are easier to remove and cause less scars/damage to a model when you remove the supports BEFORE curing.

[KhantosD]

Dude, I NEVER understand Murray's painting style, but holy hell I love what it looks like. I wish I could mimic it, but hot damn.

[Tpazmachine]

You know what? I am genuinely glad I discovered and subbed to your channel after your dark time (after MajorKill video). Your Vids are a blast and I enjoy watching the craft, love and support flowing into it! I don't play tabletop, I played games years ago, and read a lot years you scratch an itch that could have been and I live vicariously through you! So a big thank you!

[Tanya_Steyn]

You guys are really breathing the life back into this channel! I started watching with your D&D campaigns but I don't watch anymore because I am not into mini painting, but if you guys do more dioramas and role playing campaigns im all in!!

[KoalaBearWorkshop]

I did a Space Bears Audio Drama. Wanted to hint at other factions but didn't know if you had any plans.

Had some characters refer to Squids. Might do a story with the Divers and have Squids be a term the bears refer to them as. Or maybe the Divers and control Squids.

Definitely looking at the other factions list for story ideas.

[RuthlessMojo]

I’ve always been a huge proponent of 3D printing. In fact I commented on one of your videos a little while back stating that I preferred using a 3D printer to buying physical minis and was met with a pointed response. The way 3D printers have evolved makes them a really valid option for building armies and with so many different 3D model creators giving us so many great designs it’s really a no brainer.

[DogmanDraws]

As a space bears backer, I'm still holding out hope for your Chaos Dino dudes. I really hope this venture helps keep the lights on, you guys are my fave creators in this warhammery space

[Sarados]

Nice to see tht TtT will go one, you are one of my favorite hobby channels.

Tips for the models:
- before removing the supports, put the model into hot tap water for a few seconds. The supports will go of easy and leave almost no support marks
- For the connection part, maybe add some panels which lay over the "connection line", so they hide part of it and break up the straight line downwards.
- maybe add pre-done cutouts for magnets, puppetswear has it on some models and it's amazing!

Also one thing I really hate at tank models is this "one big body to print", I prefer having sub-parts (top, side, bottom, like in model kits). Why? faster to print (especially if you manage to make them be able to lay flat on the print bed), if there is a print error you don't waste so much resin, easier to print (less supports etc.) and easier to customize). As a bonus the model is lighter (even if you hollow the "block) and you have space for some LED tech^^. Maybe something to consider. :)

[xthetenth]

For the guns in the turrets, you might want to put a slight pyramid profile on the guns and matching indents in the hollows for them, which would give some self-centering action.

For the seam between the halves, you might want to recess the profile of the smaller rear half into the front half a bit with the outer plates giving a bit of overlap.

[beccisharp]

the 20, 000 leagues under the sea concept look awesome!! I love the space bears but 20, 000 leagues under the sea is one of my favourite books so looking forward to support the kickstarter

[unstoppabot]

im so glad there is a chance for this channel to come back, lets help them!

[Lament_the_VVitch]

Happy to see you guys are branching out, I’d hate to see this channel die.

[mystecorewargames]

Ooh, those deep-sea guys in the old diving suits look really cool.