How To Test Your Radiant Surface Element & Wire Limiter

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This video shows how to test range cooktop radiant surface elements and element limiters, the differences between newer and old style limiters and how to wire the limiter, and what the function of the element limiter is and how it works.

If the radiant surface element stops working, it can stop heating all together or cause just one of the heating coils to stop heating. Following the instructions in this video you can properly test the element to confirm if it has failed.

A common question we come across is how to install a new element when the limiter is different. Or some people try to wire it incorrectly and the new element won't heat and the hot surface indicator light turns on but the new burner doesn't heat up. The information in the video should clear up the answers to these questions.

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Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you. I followed another guy's video guide for the installation and when I plugged the oven back in the wall my hot surface indicator light was on. I search a bit on the subject. As suggested I tested my new switch for continuity thinking that this new element that I just bought my be faulty. Everything was ok. Unplugged everything, replugged. Same thing. I search again and found your video that specified that I should connect the wire to the same label terminal, not the physical location! Magical! Everything is working as it should now. Thank you again!

madpixie
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The new element I bought didn't have small wire terminals(all 3 terminals were large), so I had to bend/expand the clip to make it fit the large wire terminals. After plugging everything back in and turning on, only the hot surface indicator light would turn on, and the element wasn't heating up. So I thought maybe I broke the wire clips. I didn't know what to do, and thought maybe I have to purchase new wires. Then I found this video!!! It was a miracle!!! It turns out that the layout was different and all I had to do was to rearrange the wires!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!! The information in this video was spot on. I didn't even know I didn't know until I watched your video. It was exactly what I missed!! THANK YOU!!

htjlee
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Great instructional video. Simple language, easy to follow. I missed a trick in noticing the terminal names and tried to match the old and new wiring based on the positioning which made me think that the product was faulty. This video popped up out of nowhere the day before I was about to return the item. Saved me almost $130 and may be some embarrassment when i take it back to the shop. Thanks a lot

giniljoseph
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Well done and very helpful. Crazy that we have this knowledge at our fingertips now. Back in the day a trip to the library and a ton of frustration might have resulted in nothing but wasted time. Here it is, model specific, at home and instant satisfaction. Thanks

RRaucina
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How to distinguish terminals with tricks, how to connect the wires. AND also, wiring diagram + disassembly photos to explain how it works.
Well done Pro!!!!
Appreciate from an electrical engineer👍👍👍

Nordkinn
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I liked how you showed and explained what was on the multimeter. It makes it easier to understand what the results should be. Thank you.

rogertriv
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Thank you. In this video you helped clear up some unclear instructions from Whirlpool that came with the replacement element. Successful installation.

ericschonenberg
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Hi, it is possible to remove and replace limiter only ? Th top of the road is burned, and the element does'n work.

simbad-
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Finally a video about testing the limiter. Thank you.

robertmartin
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I have been searching for information on the electrical terminals on the new GE WB30T10132 which is the only element available for my older GE profile radiant cooktop. Unfortunately, the new element has two more terminals than the old one, I was not sure what the significant of the two new terminals of the new element. As it turns out, I was able to match up the right terminals for the heating elements but I was curious what the other two are for. This video laid it out clearly at 2:58, the other two are really just for the heating indicator light, which I don't need because my cooktop has a separate circuit for that light. It is also important that he showed how to test the terminals to make sure they are working properly. Good job!

timvu
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Excellent information. Finally someone took time to explain these. Thank you very much.

ruenjou
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I did not know that the terminals would be different on my replacement burner, thank you so much. I almost thought I threw $300 down the drain.

hackilike
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I have a bad limiter ( 1b & 2b are closed). Will this keep my element from turning on? If so, can I replace just the limiter?

shawnt
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I have a whirlpool dual infinite switch, as soon as I turn it on it blew the breaker .what could be shorted ? Is it the limiter, coil in the burner or the switch ? Thanks ☺️

dbenzboyfred
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Thank you. The section at 3:07 was very helpful. My new burner had the terminals in a different orientation as you described.

UpsetProps
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I have a vintage Tappan oven/cooktop model PV-4428G. The burners have 4 wires. They are not manufactured now. Is it possible to re-wire the connector to adapt to a two wire burner element or are you aware of where I can obtain a 6" 4 wire burner? Thanks

leevanderbaan
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Would there be any other switch or safety breaker that could be my problem. I have a good double element but only one element works.

sheldonweit
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Can the limiter switch alone be replaced or does the whole element have to go?

Phredwerd
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Thank you for completing the puzzle! Once I found 1b, 2a etc I connected the correct wires and presto! Another appliance saved from the Eco center!

stewthebassman
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Great video and labeling. It is the best I found, but not helpful for my unique situation. My heating element will heat, then die 10 seconds in. I bought replacement, but same issue.

lanceg