Fixing my Rocksolid Garage FLOOR

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If you haven't seen the first video then you might need to check it out to understand what's happening in this one.

After the first video, I wasn't happy at all at how the Rustoleum Rock Solid floor kit worked. I had done a ton of research on the product, watched videos here on YouTube and somehow my flooring didn't turn out anything like others floors did. In this video I'm going to try and put the floor coating on again, over the first coat and hopefully, the garage floor can start to look like it should!

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Комментарии
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Let's see what name for the fly gets voted up the most!

chaseontwowheels
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Did this to my 2 car garage, did all the steps you did but at the end I put it on with a roller that had a 1 inch nap on it. Turned out thick and even. About 2 years later it’s still perfect.

HP.Customs
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For how much you’ve spent so far, you probably should’ve just hired a company to do it.

theKPtrucker
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I know these videos are a lot of work but it really helped me out, So thank you. the 80 grit advice for the concrete was money.

jessevaroz
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Saw the problems before they happened when I watched the previous video on this project.
#1 mistake made when using concrete dyes, sealers, paints, epoxies, coatings, new concrete, etc. is not examining, cleaning, preparing, and completely fixing the concrete that will be taking the coating. Now for all the details and why:
Whatever the concrete feels like as far as texture and what it looks like, will make a huge difference. A smooth concrete surface will need less material.
Some concrete is more porous, so will require more material anyway. And the epoxy/coating being put on can vary as well, depending on the material itself and temperature etc. For example, a warmer application will likely soak in better, would require more coats, but I believe should provide a stronger surface.
As far as color, even some opaque coatings will not completely prevent the discolored look between areas. So what you see on the surface, can and will come through in some way.
The fix:
This was the fix, a lot more material, a lot more coats, until it is all leveled off and thick enough to hide colors and textures.
Next time, spend extra time on the concrete first.
If the surface, like this one, is uneven all over, textured in various ways, needs patching...then you might want to go all in and grind down the high spots, clean well, etch well, clean well again, then pour the best high strength self leveling concrete on top one can find.
Then put on rocksolid. And it won't 3-8 boxes, but 1-3.
Important reminder, provide texture in the coat, unless you want a super smooth but potentially very slippery floor. Rocksolid I believe sells a texture material, so do many others.

ryszardbargiel
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I just tried this product on my new concrete floor, 2 boxes that advertise 400-500sqft only covered 200sqft and was so thin I could see concrete better than I could the mica(metallic) flake. After 2 days of prep to achieve such dismal results, I just painted with regular concrete paint and vowed to never use rustoleum brand again. You have way more patience and money than I do!

coldac
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Marty McFly - clearly a fly stuck in time.

alexberghefer
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I have used this quite a few times, and use the first coat as a primer. Put it on too thick and you will get bubbles

JayKay
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I was your first subscriber I've been watching you since 1992!

TheKleb
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Just a couple tips for you, if you ever run into problems and have to redo this.

If it's been over 7 days since you applied that first coat with this coating, you should hit the floor with a light sanding with 100 grit paper, or a floor screen. Past 7 days the coats won't have a chemical bond, and you will instead need to create the proper amount of "tooth" for the new coat to grab to. You may see delamination of the top coat appear later down the line.

Use a jiffy style paddle when mixing the components together, or another paddle designed for resinous coatings, as well as ensure it is the proper size for the amount you are mixing up, so that it is fully submerged into the material. This will limit the amount of air you draw into the mixture, which can be a problem with some resinous coatings, leaving bubbles in the surface after it has cured.

Use a squeegee/magic trowel to apply resinous coatings for the initial spreading of material on thick coats. This just makes life easier, and lets you control the variation in the epoxy more effectively. Normally contractors would also backroll a system like this, which is exactly what it sounds like. You just go back to the beginning and roll over it using a mohair to 3/8" nap approx. Use cleats or spike shoes to walk over the wet material.

I'm a concrete geek

Rogueruler
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I did crazy research before buying/ using rocksolid and watched so many dam videos that I felt professional lol. In the end I had pretty much the same experience you guys had !! Going to put the clear over mine shortly and hope it gives it more uniformity....

craigversetti
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Glad I saw this video! I am planning on fixing up my garage floor. Thanks Chase!

Carrmistr
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Wish I saw your video 2 days ago when I did my garage floor.. I’ll redo it tonight this way the real way, thanks!

fredwang
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‘I was so unhappy with this stuff when I used it the first time, I bought more and I’m gonna use it again!!!!’

Brilliant.

CHSmoot
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Very very helpful video. He provided the right negative information that helped me compensate with same product. I figure it takes at least 50% more than the product says it takes. Thanks

dennisraycooks
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If you left it longer than a week between the first and final coats, you must scuff up (lightly sand) the floor to avoid delamination of the new epoxy coating. Hoping it all works out well for you.

unclezeds
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Man, your garage setting looks ultra clean...i'd say even cleaner than my room right now

MuhammadAli-krcr
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Wow, that looks a LOT better! You should name the fly Larry

WheelPursuit
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for the cost of this stuff might as well go with an actual multi step epoxy system

jacobscutzlas
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Year and a half later, still look okay? Thanks for posting!

RSRevivals