Bandai's 1/48th Scale AT-ST: Paints Used

Hi Guys, just a quick video to re-cap the paints I used during the build.
From the Vallejo ModelAir range:
71.054 Dark Grey Blue - Pre-shade and Chipping
71.046 Pale Blue Grey - Basecoat
71.001 White - Interior Cushion, Backpanels and base for the yellow and red detail paints
71.051 Barley Grey - Dark detailing "lowlights"
71.114 U.S.Blue Grey - Midtone detailing
71.101 Blue - Light detailing "highlights"
71.002 Yellow - Detail paint for interior interest
71.003 Scarlet Red - Detail paint for interior interest
71.126 IDF Green - Monitor detail
71.062 Aluminium - Turret collar and Crew station lever detailing
Mig 502 Abteilung Starship Filth - Gunk wash and drybrushing
Vallejo Premium 62.063 Satin Varnish
Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish (clear cote)

Hope this helps with the first half of the series where I didn't quite explain the paints used properly, if you need any further help, please leave a comment below and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Thanks for watching!

[chrislangwade]

thanks for explaining the paints you used,  

my bookmarks are now full of all your builds, the amount of reference material you provide is staggering,  
it's good to see a modeller who likes to show everything, not just selected bits of the build.. top marks fella,
and thanks again

[michaelgershon]

T,

Thanks for this.  Especially below clarifying when to use the Glosses and Mattes.  Wow, I just sent HLJ a whole bunch of cash!

Looking forward to the Speeder Bike!!!!

Michael G

[bpezzano]

Thanks for the video. I just got Vallejo model air basic color set. And the metallic set. Haven't had much luck with their white and Grey primers. The black works fine in my airbrush. Wierd. Anyway, thanks again for the great video. Take care my friend.

[helgan]

Thank you! I'm assuming if you're using testors you're in the states? Either way, you need a gloss finish to start with once you're ready for the gunk wash.
With the gunk wash, go straight from the tube, slather it everywhere (no thinners) and wipe off with an old t-shirt. You should hopefully find that it'll stay in the panel lines, thus taking care of filter AND pin wash in one fell swoop. Still takes a week to dry though, so make sure you plan that into your build!
If you're able to, get a cheap and cheerful kit to practice on, no need to build it or anything - a plane is great for this as the wing have lots of panel lines to play with! Give the wing a coat of gloss varnish, let it dry and the play with the starship filth, see what you can do! Once you're happy with the work and it's dry, seal it in again with another layer of varnish - gloss for more oil streaks and matt if you're doing chipping and/or drybrushing.
Hope that helps? Let me know how you get on, but I really do advise you to go with a cheap kit to practice on so you can get used to the technique. Good luck ^_^

[cboyd]

Helgan I love your videos. The Bandai kits have inspired me to do something I've wanted to do for a long time - try my hand at modeling. I have completed the TIE and TIE Advanced. I did a straight build and used Vallejo acrylic to hand brush the grey bits and it came out great. I bought a tube of Starship Filth and want to try and bring out the detail. Any tips? I was thinking a clear coat of testors or mr. Hobby from the rattle can (gloss? semi gloss? matte?) Then either a gunk wash? Pin wash? Filter approach? Any tips at all appreciated as I have no idea which technique to use but willing to try any of them. Thanks!

[stompingfreak]

Nice one. So a custom pink AT ST with hippy decals(peace, CND sign etc) is on the cards for the next video?? Ok, here's the bit I'm confused at. Which, when, why? With all the different vanishes, I get use a gloss before gunk wash, but when do you decide Klear or humbrol Matt, or which type of varnish to use at which stage?

[jigabachi]

Sorry to break the bad news but I've just watched the HLJ YouTube channel and Bandai have told them that they can't ship the Star Wars kits internationally.
Apparently they were only intended for the Japan market.
So from the 20th Sept they will remove those items from the international site. They have a small sale on current stock at the moment, not sure if Amazon would be a good option after the 20th (I get mine through 3rd party sellers that way) but if they do I'll expect the prices will start to rise.
Just a heads up, I suppose we will have to put up with the Revell kits in the UK and Europe.

[robchisholm]

Hi Helgan35, I'm looking at getting back into modeling seriously, done a few kit's to get my eye back. However I'm looking at buying a reasonable air gun and compressor. What would you recommend as a starter but also something I'll not 'grow out of' to quickly?
Great vid's keep them up n just started following you on twit. Cheers Rob

[MojoDevirus]

Mr Helgan35 sir,

Great vid and tutorial. I've checked Mig online and Mig 502 Abteilung Starship Filth is no more shown. Any alternative oil from Mig's line that you can recommend. Thank you.

[jojosanchez]

I don't know if anybody has experienced this. Apparently, the plastic material of Bandai doesn't like Kerosene based enamels. I "washed" my finished AT-ST with diluted black enamel to bring out the details and the legs broke off... in critical areas. I don't know if I can glue them back with enough strength as before. I washed the Tie Fighter before this and nothing bad happened. Its a sad ending to what was a wonderful build.

[gurufoxx]

CHICKENBONCE!

So, it's my fault then, huh? Oh well, it all came out for the best :)

Humbrol clear gloss? Ew, that stuff is only good for burning :(

IIRC, a lot of the paints used on the original filming miniatures were Floquil paints - I know Reefer White and Grime were two colours used on the Falcon. Floquil paints are still around BUT unless you live in the US then you will have a nightmare getting hold of them. I also *think* they were lacquer-based which I have no desire to ever use because I don't work in an industrial spray shop. I think in the UK there is, like, ONE place you can get them from but, really, I wouldn't go through all the hassle.


*edit to correct "Flacon" to "Falcon" because my hands refuse to type "Falcon". Same reason my Heavyarms will forever be known as "Heavywarms".