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Klipper 3D Printer Extruder Calibration | also Marlin, Direct Drive, and Bowden E-Step Calculation
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I walk though the steps of calibrating E-Steps for Klipper or Marlin firmware, and Direct Drive or Bowden setups. So this should cover calibration for almost any printer out there.
Stock 3D printer extruder calibration is usually fine for a while with PLA printing, but to start getting great prints or to try new filaments, it can help to have a good E-Step calibration. This is the amount of signals your controller needs to send to the extruder motor to get a millimeter of filament extruded. Both firmware options have their difficulties that make this a little confusing. Klipper has some extra equations needed, while Marlin firmware is a little more difficult to change the configuration values of the printer.
But by the end of this tutorial you will know that any issues you are having with printing won't be coming from a miss-calibrated extruder motor. There are several other issues that can cause over or under extrusion that you will then need to look into.
This calibration is a one and done thing. It isn't like bed leveling where you need to do it between prints. Unless you change hardware on your printer, then this won't need to be redone.
The gear I use:
Stock 3D printer extruder calibration is usually fine for a while with PLA printing, but to start getting great prints or to try new filaments, it can help to have a good E-Step calibration. This is the amount of signals your controller needs to send to the extruder motor to get a millimeter of filament extruded. Both firmware options have their difficulties that make this a little confusing. Klipper has some extra equations needed, while Marlin firmware is a little more difficult to change the configuration values of the printer.
But by the end of this tutorial you will know that any issues you are having with printing won't be coming from a miss-calibrated extruder motor. There are several other issues that can cause over or under extrusion that you will then need to look into.
This calibration is a one and done thing. It isn't like bed leveling where you need to do it between prints. Unless you change hardware on your printer, then this won't need to be redone.
The gear I use:
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