Best Transom Saver EVER | Myths and Truths | Bass Fishing

preview_player
Показать описание
Transom savers and motor toters DON’T do what you think they do! Discover the dos and don'ts of towing your boat with our comprehensive guide. Learn what can damage your engine, and explore the best methods for trailering. Get expert insights on transom savers, motor toters, and how to securely attach your boat to the trailer. Perfect for bass fishing enthusiasts seeking reliable and safe trailering advice.

Equipment

#BassFishing #FishingTips #AnglingEssentials #BassResource #FishingGear #CatchMoreFish #OutdoorsAdventure #FishingCommunity #fishing

Don't Miss Out! 🏆
👉 Hit the SUBSCRIBE button for more amazing fishing content.
👍 Like, Comment, and Share - join our community of fishing enthusiasts!

Follow Us!


Fishing Tackle We Recommend...

Line

Hooks

Weights

Tackleboxes

BassResource may receive a portion of revenues if you make a purchase using a link above.
Комментарии
Автор

At the 1:25 mark, you say that the “Kick stand” doesn’t bring your engine high enough off the ground, and your lower unit is going to drag on the ground. On my Yamaha, when the kick stand is engaged, the engine is as high as possible at that point.

You also said that “Because the road and vibration it’s gonna fall down and now your engine is gonna slide down and cause thousands and thousands of dollars in damage”. I don’t think so, the engine has a lot of downward force on the kick stand. I’ve driven several hundred miles with the kick stand engaged and never had a problem.

prohomevideos
Автор

Great vid Glenn. This is a bit of a touchy subject for me because I always get into arguments about this... But I agreed with your video 100% and I even learned a few things. One thing I would add is that the DD26 style is NOT a transom saver but many people seem to think it helps save your transom. There is a lot of debate over whether or not the old school transom savers actually help the transom, I read a lengthy mathy post from a supposed engineer that explained that a transom saver does not take any weight off your transom... What he failed to realize is that the weight is not the problem it's the direction of the force. The shear force (vertically) may be about the same but when you set your motor down on a transom saver the top of the motor plate drives into the transom rather than out of it, taking stress ("weight") off your transom. I don't think this is much of a problem on newer boats but if you have an older boat with a wooden transom it's something to keep in mind.

NovaNinja_
Автор

I'm 68 years old and I used the one that went to the frame until the last four years with out any problems. I started using 1 similar to yours 5 years ago. They mightbe made different but they do the same thing. I have the exact same motor as you. Since using the ones that don't go to the frame I notice the lower engine mounts have slack in them. First time I've ever had that problem. I went back to the 1 that goes to frame and I will never change again. Doesn't matter if it's a salt water boat or fresh as it's the same principle.

pnut
Автор

If you’re on a budget for a mount block, just used a piece of wood (2x6x10”) and drill the two holes for the hydro rods. Carpet the block and simply slide it over the rods and trim the motor down so the motor sits on the block and trim mount. You can build it for $20-$40.

azboatscope
Автор

I love my DD26 transom saver and steering stops!!!! Can't beat'em with a stick..✌️

bamadondon
Автор

I don't like the DD26 you have there. I like the old one. To me its not about holding the motor steady only, but if you hit a bump the motor weight causes stress on the transom. So I like the one that goes from the motor to the trailer as this eliminates the seesaw effect on the transom if you are on a rough road. And buy the ones with better and thicker rubber padding so it won't damage your lower unit or scratch it up. Don't use the cheap ones. Remember, you get what you pay for.

JohnnyQuestFishing
Автор

I trailer a 21’ Triton on dual axles over 5, 000 each year. I use Steering stops and the Transom Saver.
Biggest failure: Must have hit a monster pothole and Transom Saver came off trailer (it was bungee corded around engine but did not have a bungee cord around Transom Saver to trailer). Transom Saver must have swung down, snagged on the road and busted off, and landed somewhere behind me! About a year later I noticed that one of my stainless steel trim pistons had a gouge.

Steering Stops have been left on after launching the boat at least twice. Lovely!

Hey, if you use your gear, you will have many, many experience.

But, life lesson: Use bungee cords on top and bottom of Transom Saver.

Be well.

kevinlynch
Автор

I like the saver that goes to the trailer, simply because it takes weight off the transom.

dylanforney
Автор

The one to the trailer transfers any bouncing to the trailer frame and takes it off the transom.

The new style still transfers the bouncing to the transom.

freedomisntfree
Автор

Either one works but if your worried about vibration and shock on transom, look at your motor flying down the lake. You get way more shock and vibration than driving down the road. But I would like know do people leave their jackplate up or down when travelling.

ermannodangelo
Автор

I’ve always just put my motor down. Straight then just hit the trim button to go up just enough for my piece of mind that I won’t hit anything. In all my years I’ve never heard or seen any seals going bad on the trim n tilt. Only hydraulic problem I’ve ever had was a beaver or something chomped on a stainless braided hydraulic hose. Punctured it. I replaced it. Now, if I’m driving down yo Cabo San Lucas from Minnesota. Then maybe I’d do a little something extra for trailering. I do t feel the need to buy everything that comes to market. What do you think has more force on the transom. A 150 horsepower motor when you hammer the throttle from a standstill? Or some minor bouncing effect from going down a paved roadway or interstate! This guy is selling fear!

jaylarson
Автор

The new style helps with saving the trim system but does nothing for the transom. I like the older system because it does both. Just have to protect the paint on the lower unit if you wish to do so.

davidjenkins
Автор

@DD26Fishing is the best out there. I been with them for 3 years and dave the owner has done his research

YourAverageAngler
Автор

Skeg Drag: First time I pulled into a gas station where there was a steep incline transitioning the roadway to their parking lot and my skeg scraped that incline, I knew which device was best for my travels.

DionysianTravelers
Автор

Excellent video on the subject. You've explained it perfectly. Thank you!

JFoxTN
Автор

I have a hard time remembering my steering clips when launching. Thanks for the funny story with the transom saver!😂

Retrosmack
Автор

I run both for the long hauls, running under 2 miles I use the motor toter

rickvann
Автор

But the dd26 still only supports by hydrolic houseing which is still on the transom.. i would prefer to the one that goes to the trailer cause thats the idea.. lock it to the trailer like the boat is.

jeffsim
Автор

DD26 is working great for me. The cheap transom saver that come with my new boat was starting to damage my lower unit. It is shaped like a V and the lower unit was against a screw & scratching it up.

JimbobZ
Автор

Great vid, thanks! New boat owner. I also think my trailer too short for boat. Just a 14' alum. I need to measure trailer properly etc and check.
Sorry, one funny item: 13:08 20 cent rag, today = $20 lol

jasonr
welcome to shbcf.ru