Bleed Brakes and no need to bench bleed master cylinder (part 1)

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Bleed brakes by yourself, bleeding brakes, bench bleeding master, why do I have to bench bleed master cylinder, can I install a master cylinder without bench bleeding, how do bench bleed a master cylinder, best way to remove air from brake lines.
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I really needed this, after installing new master cyl on my 1950 chevy truck, yes their are several videos of bleeding full systems, but this was simple to understand, especially since I needed to bleed the master cyclinder on the truck without having to ask for a helper, thanks for posting.

CC-xshh
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Exactly what I was looking for, going to install two MC today, one on my 63 Baja Bug and another on a fiberglass buggy for a friend.
This system makes perfect sense.

Golden-uium
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Subscribed! Thank you. This method should be more well known? I'm about to install a new MC, and for about two weeks, I've been searching for a bleeder kit that has my odd sized threads, M12x1.0. Since not having found any, I've been forced to search for alternative methods. Was settled on submerging my MC in a container with brake fluid, then pumping it until I saw no air bubbles. Then plugging it whole submerged... Seriously, I felt this was my only option to be sure of no air, and was going to do this on my next day off work. By chance, on my YouTube feed, this video popped up, even after about a week of searching on YouTube for, "alternative ways to bench bleed" and found nothing. Got lucky. I feel like this is the way. No mess. No waste. Save a BUNCH of time and hassle. Thank you. Let you know in a week how it goes.

One question if you have the time, when taking the old MC off, you mentioned cap the lines, or bend up slightly, to not introduce more siphoning. What do you mean by this.

Anyway, thank you for the video

JohnFaire
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I do an air over fluid method that's even easier. I made a custom reservoir cap with a tire valve on it, set my air pressure at 15psi, and use the air pressure (with a clip on air chuck) to push new fluid through the MC and system, just take care not to let the fluid level get too low. Pushes out old fluid really well too. I only work on vintage Porsches and they all have the same reservoir cap, which makes it easy

ironhillrestorations
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I have always used a similar method but use clean brake fluid and just mark the bottle with a sharpie which you covered in part 2. I understand your point.

RogerPEzell
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Thanks for the video. A line plug fell off while I was changing my ABS pump and the master cylinder ran dry. I ran the car's "ABS test" procedure via scan tool in addition to doing a standard bleed at each caliper and and the brake pedal feels fine, but I came across this video looking for a technique to use to be absolutely sure I didn't leave any air in the lines as I intend to take the car out on a race track. Thanks for the information, I'll give it a shot and see if I find any improvement.

michaelw
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I've done this and it works great. Much better then those bleeder guns.

jorgereyes
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I like the idea of being able to do this and not bench bleed the master cylinder, but is it safe to say this system would use more brake fluid than the standard system (w/bench bleeding), ie, more brake fluid would have to be pumped through into bottle before all air bubbles are removed? Trying to estimate the amt of brake fluid I'll need to flush and bleed all four brakes since I'm redoing my entire brake system (new brake hoses, wheel cylinders, shoes, pads, and possibly swapping out another used master cylinder for the one that's in there-whichever looks better. Please see my other comment/question re sucking water into lines also, hoping to get this all done this weekend and need to catch bus to the parts store and pick up what I need. I've got one new quart of brake fluid, and about 6-8 oz of old brake fluid that I plan to put through first before following up w new fluid. Also normally bleed starting at right rear-left rear-right front-left front, so puzzling out how that'll work if I'm starting with left front caliper. BTW this is an 85 Dodge B-250 Ram van w/discs on front and drums on back. My rear brake line and the section going from the T to the right tire are empty due to leaking right rear wheel cylinder, so lots of air to pump out of that line since the master cylinder (rear) reservoir went dry, and fluid leaked out at right rear wheel. Sorry for rambling, I'm a detail person, and hoping to be back on the road this weekend. Any info appreciated... Thanks!!

bookguitarguy
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As I have recently found, this won't work if your master cylinder is mounted in the vehicle with a backwards tilt on it. Air simply gets trapped in a pocket at the end of the cylinder sections. At least that's what I have surmised. I am currently trying to raise the rear of the vehicle to get the master cylinder on the level. I'm not sure if this is easier than bench bleeding, but I don't have anything to fit the outlets for bench bleeding so here I am with the rear wheels of my car sitting on blocks a foot off the ground.

peepiepo
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So do this with the car running? I just changed me master cylinder and getting a soft pedal because I didn't bench bleed. This method gets all the air out of the master without bench bleeding?

TheBilliardCorner
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When I have the bleeder open and I press the pedal the pedal is still firm as if the bleeder was closed. I see a very small amount of fluid coming through the bleeder, but it never ends up reaching the end of the hose and into the container with fluid. What am I doing wrong? I've rebuilt an engine, but I'm too dumb to bleed brakes.

MuffinMan
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Skipping a bench bleed, or in car bleed is a great way to leave a bubble in the master at the far end of it's throw.

The bleeding method used here is the same I have been using for years, the advantage of bench bleeding is that you can tilt the MC forward so the air has a chance to rise to the top, it's not all that difficult to do.

You can still have a hard pedal with air in the lines, in fact, it can get too hard as the air expands.


This method can work, but it's not flawless, or the "best way" because it does leave room for errors.

sgloki
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Thank You for the great video and information.

philstat
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Just one question. Does the hose have to have two way flow, or should you use a hose and bottle with a back check valve, so that fluid and air can only pump into, and not back out of the bottle once the release the pedal?

therealist
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Everything I ever heard indicates it's best to start bleeding furthest from the mc (or abs first), but you indicate to start close to the mc? Is it really a big deal where you start?

mikegsgr
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My master cylinder still working well and i have no issue regarding my brake performance, but can i use this method to just doing normal bleeding or to change my brake fluid periodically?

wanmukhlis
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If the MC is angled up like in my '92 S10, how can you get all the air out? Won't there still be a bubble at the end of the bore?

mattr
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What does it mean when you get fluid from the bleeder instead of air. Replacing clutch master sidnt bench bleed i see it as useless for many reasons. But now im stuck the part is new.

RussMeister
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I'm your 7th subscriber, thank you for your video. What do you mean 'get a Prime'? I've got air(I think ) and I haven't been able to completely get it out; I'm going to try your idea. So I just need to go to each caliper and open whilst tube is immersed in fluid, shallow pump the pedal a number of times and that's it?

blondsuper
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What is the difference between this and standard bleeding apart from opening and closing the bleed nipple?

brianhumphreys