1900's Masonry Hammer Restored with a Custom Etched Black Magnetite Finish

I purchased this masonry hammer for $1 from a flea market. The hammer is stamped with a “BBB” – indicating it was likely made and sold in the early to mid-1900’s as that is when the company stamped that brand name on all their tools. Due to where Catalyst Restorations’ workshop is located in the US’s Midwest, BBB tools are frequently found in old 1800’s barns, and this hammer is authentic and vintage to the time period.

_________Timestamps ________
0:00 – 0:38 Overview
0:39 – 1:30 Disassembly
1:31 – 3:46 Rust removal on hammer head
3:47 – 5:29 Sanding hammer head
5:30 – 6:58 Making a new handle
6:59 – 11:32 Etched Black Magnetite Finish Process
11:33 – 12:51 Reassembly
12:52 – 12:51 Before/After
13:52 – 14:31 Testing
14:32 – 14:41 Thanks for watching and please like and subscribe!

________ Written Steps and Tips for Etched Black Martensite Finishes ___________
This surface finish process can only be performed on non-stainless steels. Different grades of steel and every part you treat with this process will yield a one-of-a-kind etch pattern to that particular piece of steel. The process is essentially identical to the “slow rust bluing” process that is used for bluing firearms, but without any harmful chemicals and stopping treatments after only 1-2 coats instead of repeating the process until the entire part is uniformly black.

Note: inhaling vinegar and hydrogen peroxide fumes can make some people nauseous, so it’s best to perform this entire process in an area with proper ventilation, preferably outdoors.

Consumable items you will need:
• Sandpaper (60, 150, 220, and 400 grit)
• Plain 5% vinegar
• Salt
• Hydrogen Peroxide (3% or stronger)

The 10 Simple Steps to the Etched Magnetite Process:

1. Sand the part to a 400 grit surface finish (roughly progress through with 60, 150, 220, and 400 grit sandpapers) – you don’t need to go any finer, the outcome doesn’t change. You can use flap wheels, Dremel/drill drum sanders, or an angle grinder to make quicker work of sanding but be careful to not let the part get too hot or burned.

2. While wearing clean disposable gloves, clean the sanded part thoroughly with acetone. Do not touch the part with bare hands from this step onward until the entire process is finished.

3. Make a bath of vinegar and heat it up to hot, but not boiling. Submerge the part in the hot vinegar for at least 10 minutes. This step lightly etches the part’s surface and makes it better accept the hydrogen peroxide and salt solution. This etching step works best on a freshly sanded part (within a day or so).

4. While the part is etching in vinegar, mix 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide with 2 tablespoons of salt. Stir thoroughly and heat the solution in the microwave until just before boiling. Pour it into a spray bottle. Use an all plastic spray bottle, if possible, as anything metal inside the spray nozzle will instantly rust.

5. Remove the part from the vinegar and hang it so it is accessible from all sides. Begin spraying down the part with the hydrogen peroxide and salt solution, thoroughly coating the part. It will be messy, so put out some towels or aluminum foil to catch rust drippings.

6. Let the first spray coating dry. You can let it air dry or accelerate it by using a hair dryer or heat gun.

7. Repeat with another round of spraying. Let the solution sit for a few minutes before drying if you are using a hair dryer or heat gun. You should be seeing a black pattern start to emerge under the rust. Repeat with another spraying round if you don’t see any pattern yet.

8. Boil a pot of water large enough to fit your part. Make sure you account for the amount of water that will boil away in 15 minutes. Submerge the part and boil for 15 minutes.

9. Remove the part from the boiling water and set on a cookie sheet to cool. After it’s cool enough to handle, rub on an oil of your choice with cotton balls or pads. In this video I used mineral oil, but you can use just about any oil. The oil brings out the sheen and pattern of the etched black magnetite.

10. Use your new tool! The surface finish prevents rust but will slowly wear off with heavy use. You can simply reapply more hydrogen peroxide and salt and re-boil it if you need to. Oil also helps keep rust at bay in small bare steel spots.

________Catalyst Restorations Social Media ________
Instagram: @catalyst_restorations

#toolrestoration #restoration #hammer

[DuckReach]

It isn't just the restoration of an old hammer. It is also the creation of a work of art. Beautiful.

[metallurgymike]

Love the finish! Side note I used the asmr from this video to distract my 1YO and she loved it

[oneshotme]

T and the B was when they were at work to try to stop it from walking off the job site. Cool I love the finish you put on it and it looks great!! Fine job restoring it and making the handle!!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up

[LittleRestorers]

Beautiful pattern on the steel. Like that handle too... also like the fact that you went for electrolysis which is my favourite rust removal method too 😉👍

[GT_Racer]

That's actually pretty frikkin cool. Looks like it'd be an easy finish to apply too. I feel like trying it.

[jkr]

This seems to be made out of the bessemer steel, according to the pattern. Looks so nice, love the etching process you demonstrated
Antique japanese tsubas were etched this way.

[brysonalden]

I've been using your process on axe and hatchet heads since your first video, and continue to think grateful thoughts about your sharing. I love the patterns that emerge, and love being able to restore tools which might otherwise be thrown away. Oh, and I love selling them, too!

[PerfectRestore]

Great work, buddy!!! Enjoyed watching it! Keep it up, I advise everyone to watch your channel! Good luck!!!

[Austeration]

Nice work 👍 very interesting and informative process getting the finished effect. Well done

[bigvicsworkshop]

Very nice.. what's awesome finish! Pretty cool stuff

[Jack_Schularick]

Hello CR, from Copenhagen A very well done video. So you did the rust treatment again! I too tried it several times with my axe heads but I stopped. The protection against rusting is not so good, in my opinion, and lasts only so long there is a visible layer of fat on the steel. And it wears off with use too. As for the handle: I admire your patience with forming it with hand tools. Tried it myself many times with my axe handles and it is a lot of work and a lot of mess too.

[RestorationAustralia]

Very nice finish, I should try this one day. Big like👍

[billiewylie]

really informative with the etched magnetite. i really like the unique look

[rodneylane]

Beautiful magnetite finish to your restoration. Great work. I noticed a scar on your left wrist. Would you mind if I ask how you got it?

[MarkMeadows]

I was thinking to myself, why are you getting the hammer head all rusty again? Then I realized, oh yeah, magnetite. Strange how those chemical reactions happen like that. I guess you wanted to go for more of a vintage look. I would've personally gave the handle a darker stain finish for a truer vintage style. But overall, you did a great job! I bet that handle took forever to shape, too!

[j.l.emerson]

Just a guess about the B & T...

Could be the previous owner's initials or...

If the hammer was mounted to keep it immobile, B could stand for bottom & T could stand for top.

[Freeman-Dl]

I'd love to restore forging hammers from antiquity, I'd use them until I leave this plane of existence.

[mskayla]

Pondering why you don't use a rust remover, like Evapo Rust or MC 51?

[andyd.]

Great video. How much does the head weigh?