Electric Stove Heat Switch - Testing & Replacement | Repair & Replace

Stove burner not working? In this episode of Repair & Replace, Vance shows how to replace the infinite heat switch in an electric stove. The heat switch controls power to the heating elements. If the heat switch is faulty then it will prevent the heating element from working properly. This video will show how to test the heat switch, and how to install a new heat switch for single and dual coil heating elements. This applies to both conventional and ceramic stoves.

Burner still doesn't work? See more in-depth troubleshooting here:

This applies to Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Maytag, General Electric, and Samsung ranges.

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00:00 Intro
00:41 How it Works
02:40 What You'll Need
03:09 Getting Started
04:14 Multimeter Tests
06:46 Heat Switch Removal
07:10 Heat Switch Installation
07:48 Finishing Up

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AMRE Supply provides homeowners, service contractors, and property management with the parts and knowledge needed to get the best performance out of any property. Stocking the largest selection of appliance parts, heating, plumbing, lighting, and janitorial supplies, AMRE ships almost anywhere in Canada within 24 - 48 hours. Expert help is available online, over the phone or in person at one of the many locations across Canada.

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[AmreSupply]

Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!

[lorettahornby]

Hi Vance,

My son & I have enjoyed watching your videos while trying to diagnose a problem with our Kenmore range. The two large burners were intermittently getting stuck in a high heat setting even after turning the dial to a lower setting. We ran through all your suggested switch, wiring and element testing and confirmed everything tested fine. When there was no sign of shorting (soot) on the burner receptacle connection, we were left with trying a new switch to see if that resolved the problem. As soon as we removed the old large-burner switches, noticed soot on the top of and inside the switch; there was no soot on the switches for the small burners which were working fine. There must have been some kind of shorting happening in there but we missed seeing that when testing the switch. The new switch resolved the problem. You might want to add this check for shorting, if that's what was happening, to your video on switch testing. Had we noticed it at that stage we would probably not had to check for a wiring or burner problem. Regardless, you saved us from a bigger repair bill and allowed us some much appreciated mother/son bonding time.

[ruru]

I am so glad I came across this video! I have a burner that only works when it is in the high position. It is an electric range. I'm going to check this out and I have a feeling that it is a faulty switch after watching this video. What I really love is how everything was explained slowly and clearly with visuals. Thanks so much and I hope to have a good report once I diagnose this on the stove!

[samj]

Amre supply is best videos on troubleshooting. Their parts sales store also offers best service, experienced staff who understand what parts needed and price matching. Thumbs up.

[roninwaveman]

Great video, thanks for the clear and concise info.

[azwb]

Your Part worked perfectly. Thanks for the excellent video. L1 to L1, H1 to H1. I was replacing the original switch which looked different.

[maryellenwhite]

thanks for a good video. I am 67 yr old female and could have done this by myself but my son did help to be sure we replaced one for another. It was easy. We did encounter one problem.. The metal part that the knob attaches to was turned around and made everything upside down.. my son easily figured that out and we were done!

[utubeuser]

You just saved me from almost ripping out the wires of my old switch. Thank You!

[WesternEclectic]

Great video, thanks! I was able to fix it myself and save the cost of a service call.

[frederickwolf]

I did install the new switch, then I took the old switch apart to try to understand why it failed. Then I saw the calibration screw. This dual burner set switch lasts for about 10 years. Over the last 20 years I have had to replace the switch twice. The first time the burners would not work at all the second (this time) the burners stayed full on no matter the switch position.

I suspect that the wear on the axel of the switch or the 2 cams may have created my full on issue.

As an enginerd, I am going to record the on and off times for various settings for the new switch, and then make a setup to run the same wattage through the old switch and adjust the calibration screw to match the new switch so that in 10 more years I won't have to cough up even more money. Yes I see that I'll have to use an insulated allen key as the screw will be hot.

[brianperkins]

There is important layer when instaling infinite stove burrner switches, that can catch people off guard and cause a direct short circut, its not an issue if you are using a OEM exact model replacement switch. and transfer the wires to the exactly same termnals on the new switch, Electric stove switches on each side of the stove Share a "unit on" indicater pilot light, so that lamp uses a shared connection that is wired to the pilot termnal on "both" switches, , The pilot lamp (The cook top indicater in your example) Termnal (The purple wire in your example) is connected to the "L1 phase" of the supply power coming into the switch, (this L1 phase relationship for both switches is very important !) and is energized anytime the infinite switch is switched on . if the exact orignal switch is no longer available many parts suppliers will be told to substute a compatible universal infinite switch, its termnals may not be in the exact same locations as the orignals, Its important that you do not get the L1 and L2 connections crossed betwean the two switches, its important to look at the power input termnals of the new switch and ensure you connect the same power phase to the physical L1 input termnials on "both switches" so that "both switches are wired in the same same phase relationship". If the L2 phase gets wired to L1 on your new switch, you will end up (In the united states anyway) with a direct 240 volt short betwean the two pilot lamp termnals if both burners are switched on at the same time. Because the pilot lamp circut would then be connecting phase "L1 and Phase L2" directly together. Trust me you dont want to do that.

[donotcallmesusan]

ALL of my burners are suddenly staying on even when the knob is off. Flipping the breaker resets the stove & it stays off until you turn on a burner. It seems unlikely that all 4 switches suddenly malfunctioned at the same time. Is there something else I should check? Is this a control board issue? Thanks for the helpful video.

[AJ-xeih]

Excellent video. I called store to buy a switch for GE even though they are all almost the same one or two manufacturers they quoted me for dual element control switch $248 cdn, typically highway robbery
I took a switch apart and the contact get tired sometimes if you use it too much which we are. So basically I bend them back in their previous shape 4 and 4a and the switch works as before.
If nothing is broken this could be your fix.
Hope it helps.

[javiertaboracastejon]

Thanks for your content, I tried on mine, and testing between l1 and p, has continuity being off, the others that you check in the video didn't, I'm having this issue after cooking, a beam of light came out, burning the spiral of the stove and piercing the frying pan.

[timothygraves]

The only difference on the finishing up part is to test the stove before placing it back into place.

[jirotaro]

I have a Whirl Pool Range with one dual element in which the "outer" portion works and the "inner" portion does not. When testing the Infinite switch for continuity are you to test the switch on "high" for the two settings "single" use of element and "full use of element. Thank You!

[raineydaygirl]

What if some have high numbers flashing? Confusing.
Not sure where to set meter; I have it on the 200 on ohm side. What you call 4A gives high numbers & mine is labelled PILOT. My GE PROFILE Range is turning the back small element on by itself (warm with light)-who knows how long since 2007? I never use this element.
Test: Dial on max- P2/4 flashing over 1…into double digits. Same with P2/PILOT (in your 4 location)…I see some decimals but it’s all over the place. Do I believe it’s Ok & test the other knob switch which controls 2 parts of the 3-part burner?

[charisserempel]

I rent and the stove is a very old harvest gold Admiral. The knob just spin around and the heat is stuck on high but the light works. Don’t have the testing equipment and I’m just hoping to replace the switch. Thing is I’ve no idea what the model is. Where/how can I find out what switch to buy?

[mikesepe]

Hi i just tested my burner and infinite switch. They tested ok as per your video but my burner still does not work. Is there anything else that I could test to isolate the problem? Thx

[superdobette]

I think I might have the same problem but after I heard it pop it worked again after. I switch from the bigger burner to the small one to quickly and heard a loud pop, I figured it might have been a breaker or something but quickly realise with the videos that it's probably the heat switch. But for the life in me why the heck is it still working I must have blown something up by switching the knob from one side to the other. Did it arc back there I didn't see any flash just the loud pop. My stove is a Samsung model NE595R0ABSR ceramic top