My Simple Jig for Dead Straight Cuts - Woodworking Tips

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JohnHeisz
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So far this is the simplest method I found, thank you

alexeyorlov
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This man is so talented! I over spend because I’m learning.

kencostigan
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Excellent demo. I did the same thing years ago with a 8' length of 1-1/2" square aluminum tubing, 1/8" wall. It attaches to my fence with two ell type screw clamps. It works great for jointing and it's tons faster than a jointer.

hardnox
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Awesome idea, amazing how simple things can be so effective.

rjtumble
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My first thought was, why isn't he using the fence? Then I finally realized how it works. I think this is clever. People should note that your auxiliary fence has to be twice as long as the board you're cutting or you'll start to lose accuracy.

sickle
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U are the first person to describe what side to place initially against the auxiliary! I wasn’t getting it in my mind as to how the straight cut would be made. Thank u for actually explaining!!!👍

tro
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I've done something similar with a 6' level, works great to get edges straight and flat!

davidn
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Finally someone else has addressed the issue that I have done for years.I have made 8 ft and 10 ft with extensions to do 16 foot fence. The majority of work I do with the 8-footer.my fences are taller and have to attach my way of clamps but still they are very easy to use not of course as convenient and easy as yours.you are of the only one of significance that has brought this interesting jig up. It is very efficient at doing multiple straightening of many pieces at a time. I love it. The two-point contact with the fence is very critical, even if you have to make those points artificially by temporary tacking or glueing or taping something to your board. Thank you thank you thank you for showing this.

gnusndn
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For years, I used a piece of aluminum channel for this purpose. It worked very well. Using a long, straight piece wooden stock for the same purpose makes a lot of sense.
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I have never had a jointer and, because I have a hobby woodworking shop, I don't need one, either. Two shallow cuts on each side of a board using this setup and you've got glue-ready edges every time. Sharp, clean saw blades are very helpful, too.

Good advice! Thanks!

jerrystark
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Thank you for posting this video. Your demonstration helped us conquer the crowns and dips in our boards. Using your method, we were able to make all five pieces of material match up perfectly! Thank you!

dianecampbell
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I have some 10' lengths of walnut with twists, this helps a lot. Thank you.

ronbishop
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Pure and simple genius. Love that you can get full thickness cutting capacity from your table saw using this method. Thanks for sharing.

tobiasmaier
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So the point of using the longer piece of wood, rather than just your saw's fence, is simply giving the board being cut more distance to ride along a straight surface?

mrjohnson
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Cool fence idea, I might have to try it. Your safety setup makes me super nervous though, I'll spare the details as I'm sure you've herd it before.

dwareb
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Nice that you made this to clarify what it was for. But after watching I still didn't know how it works or why it's needed. Eventually it dawned on me after reading a few of the comments; although they didn't explicitly say how it works either. 😁

markjohnson
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I've done exactly the same thing since I use a lot of pallet wood, it's one of those simple things that make a world of difference!

animationcreations
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I just recently did a similar thing by using a straight piece as a spacer between the work and the fence, and pushing both pieces through together. It worked, but the lumber I was using was really heavy, and it felt a bit sketchy. This looks much more elegant! This will really help my jointer-less shop

evanbarnes
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I made one today. And also created a zero clearance olate for my blade. Can't believe I've been missing this for all these years. This thing works like magic.

ontisitsemanyeneng
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Been looking at various videos for a solution to this issue. Yours is the best (and simplest) solution yet!

kellyklaasksu