Class 3 and Class 4 Climbing: 5 Tips for Those New to Alpine Scrambling

If you are wanting to move from class 1 and class 2 alpine hikes, like those found on many 14ers, and move on to class 3 and class 4 climbing, you may need to make some adjustments to your preparation, focus, equipment, and movement. This video walks you through 5 foundational tips for climbing 14ers, 13ers, and other alpine peaks.

For more information on this video (including some specifics on the gear in the video), go to:

0:00 Intro
0:07 Bumper
0:25 Moving from Class 1 and 2 to Class 3 and 4
0:50 Route Planning
2:03 Route Finding
2:44 Mitigating Rock Fall Risk
4:46 Boots, Shoes, and Traction
6:04 Movement over Scrambling Terrain
6:37 Outro

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You can find the specific gear I am using in the video by following:
La Sportiva Boulder X shoe

Mammut Wall Rider helmet:

Black Diamond Equipment Vapor helmet:

A special thanks to Marisa Jarae for cinematography in this video: scenes that include me in the frame while in the Himalaya.

This video description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!

[charlesj]

Good advice. I'd add one more point - going up is usually easier than going down, and most mountain accidents happen on the descent. If planning an out-and-back route, keep this in mind and don't climb up anything that you can't confidently climb down.

[emilywein]

That's my crestone peak trip report. That's hilarious!!! The one with the red prius

[henryczenczek]

I have one additional tip I've told my family many times. It's much safer to downclimb face-in rather than face-out. Most people feel more comfortable facing-out but it puts you in a much more vulnerable position to begin a tumbling fall that you can't control. If you are face-in, it puts you in a better position to catch yourself before you can gain to much speed from a slip. It also puts you in a better position to identify foot holds that are below you. Lastly, stepping on a small foothold with your toes is more balanced than on your heals.

[MotoNomad]

As someone who turned several class 3+ 14er “scrambles” into low class 5 climbs back in the day, I cannot emphasize enough the advice to be constantly checking that you are still on the route you intended to climb. Especially if you are comfortable with “real”rock climbing, it can be very easy to get off route and find yourself doing “fun” stuff that you eventually realize is not the route and for which you probably should be roped up. These days there is so much beta available, this should never happen to someone who is prepared and paying attention.

[rogerharris]

Thank you for a well-thought-out summary. I would note at time 1:52, the definition of Class 4 is "Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal." For places like the Hourglass on Little Bear, and Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata Peak, a rope is often used for this Class 4 terrain.

[jackluke]

fantastic video. I'm preparing for a class 3 climb in a month from, and just learned so much from this video. Thank you.

[kylebeyerlein]

Wonderful video! Excellent information and informative video!

[TVinmyEye]

I’ve Done a handful of class 3 and a couple of class 4 hikes out in The Sierra Nevadas. It’s such a rush. Down climbing tho is definitely something I need to work on though. These are great tips! Thanks for sharing

[isaacg]

On shoes I recently bought a pair of Bellville ultralight combat boots. They are breathable, very very light, provide great ankle support and the souls must grab and mold onto everything. I have 400+ miles in these boots already with no broken stitches, no hot spots blisters or break in time. Get yourself some combat boots if you're looking to save money. I can also comfortably run my crampons on them.

[alehax]

Excellent advice and well put together video!

[georgesheffield]

Class 4 is class 3( hands and feet ) where you are unsure of the above situation and have rope backup . Much of what i see on class 4 use is very poor rope work / protection and is probable just a unsafe as you imagined on class 3 moves . Practice 5th class moves in the gym and on various types of rock and especially practice placing pro and correct rope work .

[dougyuiop]

I would think class 4 has exposure that generally wants rope protection. This seemed more just geared to class 3 climbing.

[LifeAtHighAltitude]

Looks like the Kelso Ridge at the end of the video

[frankblangeard]

A mystery to me is what distinquishes a class 3 from a class 4. Class three seems to be quite common but class 4 seems to be quite rare. I see videos of routes described as class 3 which look very demanding and potentially fatal.

[achilleze]

what age is too old to start class 3 climbing?

[TG-pdft]

'Route' is pronounced 'Root', not Rout. It's French word

[waterlife]

Why is this called scrambling? It’s clearly climbing. 🫤