Master Your Camera in 10 Minutes (Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO, etc.)

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Or it's included in the full course: Full Time Filmmaker:

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Chapters:
00:00 Introduction
00:35 Step One: Resolution
02:22 Step Two: Frame Rate
03:16 Step Three: Shutter Speed
05:12 Step Four: Aperture
06:42 Step Five: ISO
08:26 Step Six: White Balance
09:27 Step Seven: Picture/Color Profile
10:28 What's Next?/MusicBed
11:28 Outro

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Step 1: Resolution, 4k
Step 2: Frame Rate, 60fps for slow mo, 23.976 or 24fps for Normal shots
Step 3: Shutter Speed, Double your Frame Rate e.g for 23.976 use 1/48 or 1/50
Step 4: Aperture, F1: Blurry Background, F10: Keeps everything in Focus
Step 5: ISO
Step 6: White Balance: Make your Whites look white (Most common is 5600k)
Step 7: Picture Profile or Color Profile

ttemidayoo

Thanks for these tips, I will definitely use them in my videos

cristiolino

pls do a step by step video on the canon C70 where you dial in all your settings

harveyyoder

I thought this was a video for Manual Focus based on the thumbnail. Even though I grew up using manual focus, ever since I got a Sony and good AF-C mode, it's like a muscle I've just lost and I swear I rotate the lens the WRONG WAY every damn time I try.

PetrosofSparta

One of the most important videos I've seen. I would be happy if you could help me know, in your personal opinion, the best settings for drone photography in an urban area on a sunny day, in terms of shutter speed & ISO only. The aperture size is fixed in the drone (F1.7). Thank you very much.

Eladrone

ISO: Higher means more light means more burn
Resolution: goes without saying, always choose the highest possible
Shutter Speed: Double frame rate.
Aperture: the lower the blurry the surroundings
White Balance: The Lower the K the blue-er, the higher the more orange
FPS: 24 is real life. 30 looks more clean. 60 and 120 are for slow motion (as you need more frames otherwise it would look choppy).

navalravikant

I like your orange jacket ! Wich brand ! Thanks for this very good video and pedagogy

vincenzodelfuego

For all beginners out there - ISO is not part of the image capturing exposure setting process (if it's celluloid film, it is designed to have specific sensitivity, or ISO, and cannot be changed). It needs to not be taught this way anymore because no more or less light is hitting the camera sensor. If you keep shutter the same, adding or taking away light is your only option. A great way to think about this is if a singer doesn't change the volume they're singing into a microphone (audio version of a camera for images), but the sound mixer cranks the signal gain into the soundboard, the signal can clip and distort, but the singer didn't actually change volume. Changing ISO is like using a worse microphone to record a really good singer - the dynamic range between quiet and loud parts of the singer's performance (or in our case the difference between light and dark) will be lessened.

benjamin.kelley

Hi Landon and FTF family. Love your videos here and on your own channel. May I know what lens are you using in this video? I assume Sigma 20mm 1.4?

kosimphotography

great video thanks concise and informative....gonna use this as my go to...

yodamandala

Hey can you make a video on dark and moody orange cinematic lighting setup for youtube videos. Btw love from BHARAT 🇮🇳.

_.theycallmebide._

Isn't the color of light The higher the Kelvin the cooler the temperature instead? Being 1000k very warm temperature (orange to red) and 10000k very cold (blue color) ? Or does the rule changes somehow for the camera configuration?

Justtowatch