My New Race Bike

preview_player
Показать описание


Stay updated with weekly NCNCA road and criterium bike racing commentary, tips, and strategy by subscribing:

My Strava:

Instagram:

Send your footage for analysis to:

Send Coaching and Collaboration related questions to:
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

You MUST use carbon paste on the seatpost ! Its never a last resort

________________________
Автор

Love the video ❤
1. Do not cut bolts! Get the right size and use shims for the time being. Also, 2. Of course you need to use carbon paste on your seat post. It’s not optional.
3. Internal routing through handlebars is always a PITA
4. Shimano wheels are so outdated, it’s a joke. Get a good Chinese wheels like CRW or Light Carbon

tomertz
Автор

Don’t cut the brake bolts! Shimano makes bolts for different chainstay thicknesses. It used to be more varied when flat mount was new, but pretty much everyone has settled on 30mm chainstays so that’s the bolt included by default when you buy brakes now. Looks like the Tavelo’s chainstays are 25mm so I guess they didn’t get the memo.

patrickmohl
Автор

Caliper bolts for Shimano come in different length (for different width chain stays) - just order right sized bolts.

sergmelikyan
Автор

I would happily pay a shop to route the cables, that process looked like a nightmare. I know I'd end up tearing a cuticle or two

prtu_
Автор

Love the video! Great color. 1. Always use carbon paste. Especially if there isn’t any texture on the clamp or seat post. 2. Never cut the bolts. Shimano and other brands offer different lengths for different bikes. 3. Routing thru the bars and frame can be easy with the right tools and picks etc. 4. There are different D shape compression plugs that could’ve been bought. 5. Kudos on the 5mm stem cap suggestion thing. Very safe for sure

jesseladd
Автор

Tavelo sales going up in 3...2....1.... Always enjoy some non-sponsored opinions!

ChinaCycling
Автор

If your caliper bolts are too long you can uses valve nuts as spacers until the correct length arrives, however this has nothing to do with frameset. Shimano and Sram specify how much of the bolt should protrude and offer it to buy. I have 3 frames and all use different lengths.

AdamPopovec
Автор

Put carbon paste around all of the seatpost that is in the frame contact and you will be ok with 5-5, 5Nm

eddeking
Автор

I have the same wedge on my Cervelo and it's a ridiculous design. Despite using proper torque and carbon paste, mine kept slipping until the wedge wore off a layer of carbon on the seat post. I'm now waiting for a new post under warranty. The aero gains of skinny seat posts aren't worth the hassle in my opinion. My next bike will have a good old-fashioned round post with a clamp that actually holds it in place.

darrellstyner
Автор

Good video.

I built up an SL8 how I wanted and paid a shop in Indianapolis $200 which is an absolute steal.

I have lots of tools I’ve obtained and can do most maintenance but building up a bike, esp routing cables and bleeding hydraulic fluid is more than even the most serious cyclists can do. I think the video warned of the difficulty, but I’d emphasize it even more so. Mechanics have a lot of experience working out the kinks.

More and more companies are allowing you to buy prebuilt with whatever specs you want like Factor. The days of people getting 42cm bars and 170 longer cranks should be long gone, but brands are stuck in the past for some reason.

jwfriar
Автор

Nice to see the Peak Torque hat tip in there.
That seat post clamp design is terrible across brands.
Internal cable routing is Dante's 9th level of Hell.

rsmiii
Автор

Great video as it relates to pre-built (Canyon) vs. building your own up. I bought a Canyon 6-7 months ago. I ordered a size large. The cranks (said) it comes with 175's. I, like you ride 165's. It actually came with 172.5's. The bike is Red AXS. The Red AXS 165mm cranks were 425.00. So I had to change them out myself. Love the bike.

bestretirementever
Автор

You can just buy the shorter Shimano brake caliper bolts. You can also put in a spacer kit. Both standard Shimano issue if you know what you are looking for.

kaih.
Автор

Wild how we went from a a non-proprietary standard that worked out of the box - the 27.2 seatpost, to being ‘okay’ with a slipping seatpost just to save what, 3-4 watts?

jamesbrickwood
Автор

not jeff going out of his way to do something just for us awwww. but seriously its super cool of you. i've already heard from jessie, pt and patty but would love to hear your take

Dustydayzz
Автор

11:30, Exactly and the new white Aeroad CF SLX also looks super sick. Oh and btw handlebars can go down to 35cm if you want, stem change costs 200euro "only", zero issues with seatpost or anything else (did groupset swap on mine, bb is great, brake mounting points properly faced, all good stuff) I just don't get it, why would anyone buy the Tavelo. Not even talking about resale price on Tavelo is going to be pretty bad.

FliskerX
Автор

Cable routing through holes in handlebars is DUMB. The standard should be having cable grooves in the bottom of the handlebar (which some bars have), then running the cables along the bottom side of the stem, and into the spacers in front of the steer tube. (which a number of bikes do have, the SL7 probably being the most common). This way you have the cables hidden from view and get the aesthetic and aero improvements, but it's FAR easier to set up, and you can easily change handlebar or stem, and you could of course use one-piece bar-stem units,

FT__Bicycling_____-scyv
Автор

I don’t think the cable routing is really a problem, I think it’s just a skill level. Anything you do every once in a while is difficult, but if you do it more and more over and over again. Then it’s not really a con. But I understand in your situation it was more difficult then you like it to be.

GCPerformance
Автор

I built the same frameset a month ago. Got the same problem with the caliper bolts:D
I don't understand the frustration with the handlebar routing. I routed the cable from the routing kit from the opposite side first, then attached the hydraulic hose with the screw tip and pulled it through. It came through quite easily.
The only problem I had was the undersized BB. What was your experience with the BB installation? Which ones do you use?
When using the plastic dura ace BB from Shimano the drag was considerable. I ended up using the undersized threaded BB that came with the frame. Eventually going to make this hole a little bigger...

turborider_