THIS Is a Bad Idea // Artillery Hornet Review

The Artillery Hornet 3d printer checks a lot of boxes and works well once dialed in, but it's newest patent-pending feature is also the worst, and ultimately it's downfall.

From the episode:

Artillery3D HORNET & Peet's Coffee - FIRST PRINTS & PRIZES!

Bryan Vines BV3D - Install Ferrules on Ender-3 V2 Wiring

Kiri:Moto from Grid Space:

Does This $299 3D Printer Make The Grade? Artillery3D GENIUS Review

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[TheLordinio]

btw. tinned wires into a screw terminal is not "better but not by much" than bare wires it is much worse because the tin will flow under the pressure of the screw and the cable will get loose over time and might short something or start a fire when it falls out of the terminal

[drifter]

I'm an electronics technician and have used ferrules for many years. I want to add that not all Ferrule crimping tools are the same. Use the ones that crimp from all 4 sides at the same time. The crimping head will look like a star with a square in the middle when not compressed and a square when compressed. Also make sure you strip enough wire so it sticks out the end of the ferrule and can be trimmed off once crimped. For those of you who are like me and just can't trust crimped connections you can take a soldering iron and place it on the bottom of the crimped ferrule. Once up to temperature apply solder to the wire at the end and the solder will flow along the wire into the ferrule and make that connection completely secure.

[MakersMuse]

Guess you could remove the nozzle and force stuff through, but it's a super short sighted idea!

[MrDrako]

They owe Joel for the consult. He just made this thing viable in like 2 tweaks

[jim]

I’ve had those times at work. A super elegant design, then someone finds a fatal flaw with it. So hard to let things go when you fall in love with a design.

[oliverktmexc]

Tinned wire ends are not better then just the wire. The opposite is true, under pressure tin 'creeps' and so tinned wires may become loose if you connect them with those screw blocks.

[BeefIngot]

I feel like the quality of this review took a step up from previous reviews on the channel. A lot more concentrated with more information and more useful criticism of the product.

[UncleJessy]

Oh man no cold pulling?!? That’s easily the most used technique I use for clearing clogs.

Great suggestions on the 2 tubes/clips to hold the cables

[DPrintBeginner]

You used my IdeaMaker profile! Awesome!

If you want to do a cold pull, you just need to heat up the hotend to ~230c, turn off the printer then quickly remove the bowden connector from the hotend. You will be able to push some filament trough the nozzle before it cools down, and then a cold pull is possible.

[AmusementLabs]

4:25 A perfect depiction of me. Thank you Joel. 😊

[sindrejl]

Joel, i have asked Artillery about the very same thing, they told me you can access the hotend from the backside, there is an opening between the ptfe tubes. Could you please check that? :)

[azbesthu]

They should make a debug adapter, that can be attached between the special cable and the hotend and let you connect elentronics but have an open tube for filament.

[woodwaker]

I love the analogy of not being able to start your car with the hood open.

[CalebStratton]

An older video, but I picked up my hornet for 200 on Amazon a few weeks ago(as opposed to like 170 on their site), and I absolutely love it. I even love the cable. Assembly was 7 screws (Seven!!), its super quiet, in a few dozen prints I've only had one issue that required me to disassemble like anything, and the belt tensioners are absolutely awesome. I am a sucker for aesthetics, and I love having a printer that looks professional, and doesn't look weird sitting on a shelf. Compared to an Ender 3 base model, I would pick the Hornet any day for the same price.

The only issue that I have had with it is the Cura profiles that shipped with it are a little rough. I used the "fast" profile to try to print it's calibration cube, but there was so much under extrusion it was practically foam. After some tinkering I got a significantly better profile figured out, and my cubes look even better than the ones shown here.

[lsellclumanetsolarenergyll]

Simple you don't do a cold pull. Instead you do what we do even on our Ender's heat up the nozzle... unscrew the nozzle with a socket. and clean the nozzle out. Push filament our without a nozzle in the printer head followed by a which extra long retraction.this will clear up your hotend. For the nozzle use a small gas torch and a pair of pliers to hold the nozzle and do this way you cold pull. It is much more controlled and much faster too.

[wibbsdibbs]

Best review I’ve seen on this printer yet! Really sums it all up

[ivobouwman]

"It's really yellow" -coldplay likes it.
Hahaha made me laugh

[OldCurmudgeonDP]

I always thought bare wire was better than tinned, caveat: you must not have any stray strands if bare. They can cause shorts.
If the connection gets warm through loading or a poor tightening of the connection, the solder will soften. This will loosen the connection in turn causing more heating; rinse & repeat until combustion.

[kurtlindner]

3:05 Wait, What!?
Everything I've ever seen says that tinning the power wires is an awful idea that leads to shorts.

[ffighters]

Hi Joel, I can agree with you on the proprietary cable they used on this. Not great for clogs and cold pulls. About your "Ribbon cables, no one likes those..." comment, I've been printing with my Sidewinder X1 v4 with zero issues with those cables, or anything else, for a full year. I even bought a second Sidewinder X1 back in January. Is it user error, or older versions of the printer that have issues with those ribbon cables? I have yet to replace any of the parts that came in the spare parts bag. Still prints great a year later.