How to Future Proof Your Lighting Circuit with a Neutral at the Switch - 3 Plate Wiring Method

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How to change the connection in ceiling rose and pendant and make sure the electrical installation is future proofed for smart switches. We look at the layout of a ceiling rose and its connections - loop, neutral and switching line. We see how we could replace the twin and CPC to the light switch with a 3 core and CPC and therefore take the neutral from the lighting point to the switch. The connections in the ceiling rose are for the 3 plate method of wiring a lighting point are explained as well as the new connection in the light switch. We see 2 different ways that the neutral can be connected within the lights switch.

== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==

00:00 - How to get a neutral at the switch
00:31 - Layout in a ceiling rose
00:54 - Connections in the light switch
02:48 - Comments PLEASE
03:29 - Removing the cable to the switch
04:03 - Install a 3 core and CPC cable during the first fix
04:32 - What colours what conductors
05:13 - Connecting the CPC
06:32 - Connecting the neutral
08:00 - Connecting the permeant line to the loop
08:29 - Connecting the switching line conductor
09:26 - Stripping the cable at the switch
09:53 - Connecting the CPC in the switch
10:45 - Connecting the switching line and permeant line at the switch
11:42 - Switch connected
12:01 - Wago splice connector
12:43 - Neutral connected
13:03 - Neutral connection in the switch
14:07 - Connecting the switch (number 2)
14:42 - Connections explained

🔵 Taking the feed to the switch 2 plate method playlist

Videos are training aids for City and Guilds (C and G) and EAL courses Level 1, 2, 3 plus AM2, AM2S and AM2E.

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#GSHElectrical #Electricaltrainingvideos #lighting #switch #wiring #electricalwiring
Комментарии
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I paid about £5k to do an electrical course that promised the world, fair enough they got me qualifications but NO practical knowledge, I’ve learnt more from your YouTube videos than I did on the course, thank you and keep them coming 👍

Blade-qiwm
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And when you find an unexpected spare neutral in the switch some years after the install - you get a very happy customer 🙂

Dean_Smith
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Great stuff. I would not strip the neutral at the switch end and use a standard choc block connector to save the Wagos...

ef
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The 3 electrician's i do work for, loop-in at switch for all new installations as it is much easier and safer for fault finding and testing.

reggiecoupe
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Neutral at switch for myself is a winner 👍

glenndyer
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Interesting and informative video. I did my apprenticeship in the late 70s and have kept up to date since. Now retired, but still have an interest for my own purposes at home.

anthonyshaw
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In Denmark we use a 5 core for everything to do with switches so we have a permanent Live, neutral and ground in every switch and light fixture. I find that perfect for future proofing

lassekibkhentzen
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Great video presentation, great idea and makes a lot of sense. I personally would prefer the first method using the wago connector. It's very handy having a neutral in the switch box, if for example it was in a hallway and you were installing an outside light, you normally would have no return from the switch, which could leave you clambering around in an attic or lifting up floor boards trying to locate a neutral to give you a return from the light. Also doesn't take that much longer to install. So well worth doing in order to future proof the system.

davidodonovan
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Only electricians will understand this other builders will get confused for 2 way switching 👍🏽great idea keeping a neutral there just incase

ImranKhan-cfgs
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Remember once seeing in a two way switch, the live conductor in L1 the switch wire in the comon terminal, and the neutral in L2. Worked well.

terrytamblyn
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Another really excellent useful video. The through-the-switch method tends to get quite busy. This seems like a great solution.

TimmyBoja
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Here in WA (Western Australia) most new build have a neutral at the switch, for existing homes that are looped at the light, most switches just have a twin (hard active and switches active). Getting a neutral to the switch isn’t always possible unless the customer wants their walls chased.

grotrev
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I have said for many years that a neutral block should be made to be attached in the back of a box to allow for a neutral cable along side the earth cable for such reasons a device comes along where such a connection is required.

tinytonymaloney
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Thanks for your efforts Gaz. I think neutrals should now be fed to all switches on new installations/ feeds. I know you said that its more expense for the extra core but let's face it, it's minimal and it's a lot cheaper than replacing a T&E further down the line.
I've just ordered the new Wago 221-2411 for my toolkit, I think they're a great addition and the way forward for the likes of extending cables to a socket etc and will replace my current Ideal Industries inline splice connectors, especially for class 2 cable.

olly
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Took a similar approach 10 years ago on my self build. I all light fittings go to the switch. All switches have a neutral back to the master cabinet and as many lives as there are lights in the room. This gives me the following options: 1) conventional switching 2) module such as z-wave in the backbox 3) ability to switch live from my central home point using automation. Thankfully I had an understanding spark who followed my design to the letter because he could sign it off under option 1 which is essentially a standard setup. But gives me the flexibility to adjust any room to suit my automation needs and still allows the whole house to be reverted to conventional switches should i ever sell the house

eliotmansfield
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This is definitely the way forward as it gives so many options post install and some commercial installs have been doing this for years as it gives the property owner the option to illuminate the whole property by providing a Live to the Switched Live side of the individual switches from one central point (Also particularly good for Fire / Burglar alarm systems)

Mike_
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Using 3C&E to give a neutral, is something I was taught to do 30+ years ago.

stuartandrews
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I always put permanent live to L1, so when the switch is off there's one less live terminal.

Good Painter and decorators are had to find and one less live terminal is probably a good thing.

joeatkin
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Thankyou so much for your great content, im currently on an electrical installations course which is run by 24/7 training uk, and I find that your videos are very helpful. Keep up the good work bud and great video 😊😊.

thomashewittknewit
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Great tuturial for someone learning the ropes as they

ronaldomac